Steve:
Sika 295 UV requires using the Sika primer .......I have witnessed a few
instances where people would not buy the Sika primer because of the cost
(it is expensive relative to the Sika 295) and the bond did not last any
time......if you don't use the Sika primer you are making a big mistake.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-21 10:35 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
I once worked as a supervisor in the area where windshields were
installed in an automotive assembly plant. At that time the adhesives
used were all moisture cured polyurethane type adhesives, and so far
as I know they still are. Proper primer and application procedure was
critical to getting the stuff to stick to the glass, and was also a
legal requirement for the painted metal, but the degree of adhesion to
un-primed paint surfaces depended enormously on the paint
chemistry. In 1996 the paint chemistry was changed. Prior to that
time, an accidental glob of adhesive on the paint was easy to peel off
once cured, and did not damage the paint at all. It didn't stick well
at all. After the paint chemistry change, the adhesive would stick
like a barnacle, and any that got on a painted surface had to be
removed immediately to prevent damage. The point to this story is that
Sika 295 sounds like the same class of adhesive, and if it is, then
the chemical makeup of the surfaces to be bonded matters a lot. I
haven't used that brand, but if it specifies a particular primer or
surface preparation, then I would follow the instructions to the letter.
Steve Thomas
----- Original Message -----
*From:* Paul Fountain via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Paul Fountain <mailto:p...@seasource.ca>
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 21, 2015 08:44
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacing Windows
When the second windows were installed, they used Sika 295 and
primer also, then a Sika caulk around the windows looks great. –
Kim was an artist with how well he matched the gel coat where he
did repairs …..
*/Paul Fountain/*
/Managing Director/
*/SeaSource Inc./*
/Bookkeeping & IT Services./
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *robert via CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 21, 2015 8:40 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Windows
I don't know what choices in adhesives C&C had to choose from in
1984 when my boat was built, nevertheless, the one used was
Plexus, which harden like resin and was the cause of my windows
leaking.
The windshield on my car is part of the vehicle's 'structural
integrity' and it is held in place by a Sikaflex product....I used
Sika 295 UV when I replaced my windows about 7 years ago.....I had
my car windshield replaced about 2 years ago and I asked the guys
doing it what was the adhesive they were using.....they told me it
was Sika with a Sika primer and probably the only difference in
the two products was the 'curing time'. The windshield guy said
that they can't use a product with a 24 hour cure time.....the
Sika product they used has a cure time of approx. 2 hours. I
understand the logistics of the shorter cure time for the car
windshield.
Seven years with the Sika 295 and no issues to date.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2015-10-21 9:08 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I just replaced the glued in ports on a small 26 footer. I
put them in with LifeSeal. The manufacturer currently puts
them in with silicone. The ports are around 4 feet long but
the opening does have a post in the middle for strength.
I can't help but wonder why not put the newer C&C ports in
with a more flexible adhesive? I understand they are supposed
to be structural and that stiff adhesives are conventional
wisdom but is it absolutely necessary? I guess without a
structural engineer revisiting any calculations that Rob Ball
did, we may never know.
Just idle curiosity.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 6:52 AM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
We have done the windows twice – first time the contractor
used ¼” – lots of issues, then had South Shore make a new
set from the original templates, and they are 3/8” and
have done much better – had a lot of repair work around
the windows as a result of the first contractor, so could
not make our own templates.
*/Paul Fountain/*
/Managing Director/
*/SeaSource Inc./*
/Bookkeeping & IT Services./
*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of
*Gary Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 20, 2015 9:16 PM
*To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com
<mailto:captnga...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Replacing Windows
I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on
High Maintenance (1990 C&C 37 Plus). The windows have
been replaced before (not original) and are currently 1/4"
acrylic. Is that the right thickness? I've seen in some
places references to 3/8" windows. So were the original
windows 1/4" or 3/8"?
Thanks,
Gary
s/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
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