I have owned my LF 38 for over 30 years now.  I have done the Plexus repair 
twice--so, I have been through 3 sets of windows (if you include the originals) 
within probably the first 20 years.  Because of my frustration with Plexus, I 
designed and built stainless steel frames for my boat, using 3/8-inch thick 
cast acrylic, and a flexible GE sealant, and they have lasted about 10 years 
without any leakage whatsoever.  I did not try SIKA but I know it is a good 
product (have used it elsewhere) and I expect that it would work fine too.  I 
think the Plexus is simply too rigid for a flexing boat like our C&C's--I would 
like to see how anyone can get any flexibility out of it.  (Perhaps each of our 
boats have different flexibilities--so, I am speaking of my LF38).

I agree that Lexan would scratch easier than polycarbonate.  

I read Don Casey's article and I have to wonder if he really knows what he is 
doing...or if he is talking about smaller windows in other boats.

Bob 


On Oct 21, 2015, at 1:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

> Hi Paul,
>      I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"  It 
> amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the 
> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
> 
>     The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less 
> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one 
> problem for another.
> 
>      As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the Photo 
> Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the bond 
> thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the adhesive 
> to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
> 
>      Thoughts, anyone?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 10:56 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> Gary,
> 
> I am surprised that you have 1/4” acrylic.  To have the strength acrylic 
> should be more like 3/8”.  
> 
> Are you sure you don’t have 1/4” polycarbonate?
> 
> I recently replaced all of the fixed ports on my LF38 using 1/4” Makrolon 
> (abrasion & UV resistance polycarbonate), 3M VHB tape, and Dow 795.  
> 
> I have pictures and a discussion of the process at: 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts
> 
> Paul
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 8:08 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2015 21:16:09 -0400
>> From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
>> To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Subject: Stus-List Replacing Windows
>> Message-ID:
>>      <cabgkxplqhqnkcdzd0eqskekj9xbe5_g9zo1zwv128v9sdqq...@mail.gmail.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> I am starting the process of replacing the side windows on High Maintenance
>> (1990 C&C 37 Plus).  The windows have been replaced before (not original)
>> and are currently 1/4" acrylic.  Is that the right thickness?  I've seen in
>> some places references to 3/8" windows.  So were the original windows 1/4"
>> or 3/8"?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Gary
>> s/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
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Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame

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