I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd just
use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit might
be a little much but just remove the shine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Yup, you will!  The question is, what is the best way to repair the
> gelcoat.  I have glass mat showing in places.  Do I apply epoxy or
> polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area?  What
> do I fill it with?  Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin?  help!!!
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
>> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
>> try.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
>>> windows....it sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
>>> UV .....if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
>>> I will use this tape method.
>>>
>>> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>>> method.  See link below:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
>>> robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Gary:
>>>>
>>>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>>>
>>>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.....not exactly sure
>>>> how much but it is noticeable.....you can get a better idea when you take
>>>> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
>>>> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
>>>> curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>>>
>>>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>>>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>>>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>>>
>>>> Rob Abbott
>>>> AZURA
>>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Fred,
>>>>      The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>>>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>>>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>>>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>>>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>>>  return to a flat shape?
>>>>
>>>> Gary
>>>>
>>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
>>>>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
>>>>> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
>>>>> Johanna Rose:
>>>>> <http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts>
>>>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>>>
>>>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>>>
>>>>> — Fred
>>>>>
>>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
>>>>> WI   :^(
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Paul,
>>>>>      I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
>>>>> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would
>>>>> change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>>>>
>>>>>     The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
>>>>> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
>>>>> one problem for another.
>>>>>
>>>>>      As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in
>>>>> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) 
>>>>> the
>>>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
>>>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>>>
>>>>>      Thoughts, anyone?
>>>>>
>>>>> Gary
>>>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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