Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.      The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C&C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.    And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.    I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!
Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.....I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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