Thanks guys,

I will try to tap and sound my way to see how far away from genoa track the
rot extends. I have oversized the backing plate back in 2004.  I have 2"
wide x 3/8" thick aluminum bars as opposed to original which I believe was
1"x1/4".  If tapping does not work, I will drill to find where rot ends.  I
plan to cut over the weekend and based on that i was thinking maybe to get
a 50yd roll of 10" or 12" wide 9oz cloth tape.  I don't know if you know
about this guy but he is very reasonable.  I've been getting gelcoat, resin
and fiberglass from him for years.  I also got interlux perfection and
primer for topsides I did few years back.

http://www.mertons.com/Reinforcements/cloth_tape.html

thanks again,
Petar


On Wed, Feb 3, 2016 at 1:53 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Petar,
>
>
>
> Based on repairing significant areas of rotten and wet core on Calypso I
> agree with what Mike Hoyt posted.  I did most of Calypso’s repairs from the
> inside owing to the ease of access and the many contoured areas involved.
> With a repair under a genoa track, especially if your access to the
> underside is limited working from the top will be far easier.
>
>
>
> When I was tracking down the extent of rot and very wet core I used a
> ballpeen hammer and tapped all around the suspect deck.  Start in a known
> dry, well bonded area and calibrate your ear to the sound.  Likely well
> bonded laminates will sound “sharp” or “bright”.  Then move to a known or
> suspected failed area.  The sound will likely become “dull” or “hollow”.  I
> also made many test holes as Mike described.
>
>
>
> If you are lucky the damaged areas are all concentrated around the
> fastener holes and the repair areas will be small.
>
>
>
> As to how wet balsa can be without concern, I recommend you visit Baltek’s
> web site.  Baltek has links to some studies that compare % of moisture to
> core strength.  Let me know if you cannot find those reports as I likely
> still have copies stashed somewhere in my many C&C 43 restoration archives.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Petar
> Horvatic via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 03, 2016 8:45 AM
> *To:* [email protected]
> *Cc:* Petar Horvatic
> *Subject:* Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas
>
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the
> track on my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet
> core, but there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona
> track area is rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the
> track from compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember
> that water was coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under
> load.    Especially area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last
> night and there is strong oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where
> ss washers and nuts were.
>
>
>
> Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out
> the top laminate?  I guess tap with a mallet?  Do people mostly save the
> top laminate or decide to lay new one from scratch?  I am also thinking
> that it would be better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included
> so that I don’t have to deal with potential of uneven surface between
> repair area and untouched area where genoa track lies.   I can foresee
> potential issues with the car not riding smoothly in area of that
> transition.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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