Petar, Based on repairing significant areas of rotten and wet core on Calypso I agree with what Mike Hoyt posted. I did most of Calypso’s repairs from the inside owing to the ease of access and the many contoured areas involved. With a repair under a genoa track, especially if your access to the underside is limited working from the top will be far easier.
When I was tracking down the extent of rot and very wet core I used a ballpeen hammer and tapped all around the suspect deck. Start in a known dry, well bonded area and calibrate your ear to the sound. Likely well bonded laminates will sound “sharp” or “bright”. Then move to a known or suspected failed area. The sound will likely become “dull” or “hollow”. I also made many test holes as Mike described. If you are lucky the damaged areas are all concentrated around the fastener holes and the repair areas will be small. As to how wet balsa can be without concern, I recommend you visit Baltek’s web site. Baltek has links to some studies that compare % of moisture to core strength. Let me know if you cannot find those reports as I likely still have copies stashed somewhere in my many C&C 43 restoration archives. Martin DeYoung Calypso 1971 C&C 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Petar Horvatic via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 8:45 AM To: [email protected] Cc: Petar Horvatic Subject: Stus-List repairing large wet deck core areas Hi all, I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and before I start cutting, I have few questions for the group. Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the track on my 38 Mk2. I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet core, but there is some strong indication that at least ¾ section of geona track area is rotten. Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the track from compression of backing plate and track screws. I also remember that water was coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under load. Especially area in the aft section. I pulled the track off last night and there is strong oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where ss washers and nuts were. Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out the top laminate? I guess tap with a mallet? Do people mostly save the top laminate or decide to lay new one from scratch? I am also thinking that it would be better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included so that I don’t have to deal with potential of uneven surface between repair area and untouched area where genoa track lies. I can foresee potential issues with the car not riding smoothly in area of that transition. Thanks Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
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