I think finding bronze NPS (straight) threaded ball valves is a difficult task. For example, every single valve sold by Defender is NPT (taper).
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 3:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1 Joe; The bad news is I don’t believe that anyone makes the flush thru hulls used on our classic C&Cs anymore. All the ones I have seen are a smaller OD than the recesses in our hulls. The good news is that you rarely need to replace a bronze thru hull. You just need one of the thru hull step wrenches shown on page 118 of the Buck Algonquin catalog and a strong helper to hold the step wrench on the outside of the boat while you remove the old valve from the threads of the existing thru hull from inside the hull. (you can also buy one at Lowes or Home Depot, but it is called a plumber’s step wrench or something similar) Both my boats came with brass gate valves on most of the thru hulls, instead of proper seacocks. When I got my 25, back in 1994, I launched into replacing the gate valves, starting with the cockpit scuppers. I screwed up both the thru hulls because of my ignorance, and had a heck of a time finding a flush thru hull to replace the ones I had to cut out of the hull. I finally found a pair of thru hulls at a chandlery in NJ, across the river from Philly – a place sort of like an OLD hardware store with lots of out of date hardware in stock. (Don’t you love poking around in those sort of places?) And the guy at the chandlery explained how you are supposed to get the old valve off the thru hull without damaging the thru hull. Once I bought the wrench, replacing all the valves was pretty straight forward. BTW, the thru hulls should be bronze, not brass. And the seacocks should be either bronze or Marlon. You don’t want to use brass if you are in salt or brackish water. Thru hulls come with straight threads. So do proper seacocks. Most of my thru hulls were clamped to the wood backing plates with a nut, so I did not have to use seacocks with a flange on them. But I have learned that ball valves intended for plumbing come with tapered threads, so I had to make sure I ordered ball valves with straight threads that matched the threads on the thru hull. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Friday, February 26, 2016 12:59 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing cockpit drain thru hulls 30 MK1 Try here: http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pdf/catalog.pdf The company is near us. Joel On Fri, Feb 26, 2016 at 12:52 PM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I am trying to find the mfg. for the cockpit drain brass thru hulls on my 1975 30 MK1. They are flush to the bottom of the hull and have a flange diameter of 3.5 inches and a 1.25 inch hole. I have tried Groco and Perko but neither has the correct size although they both have brass flush mount versions. Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might find the original replacement. I would hate to have to modify the hole or use epoxy to make a non-original thru hull fit. Thanks for any ideas on this..... Joe Zia - 1975 C&C 30 MK1 Annapolis _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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