Which one did you use Bettina? The article mentions Loctite PLS20, PLS 40,
and but no Quikcrete. Looks like Loctite has also come out with a Marine
version.

Loctite Polyurethene here
<http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/17/26/pl_seal_sl/overview/Loctite-PL-S20-Polyurethane-Self-Leveling-Concrete-Crack-Sealant.htm>

Practical Sailor Article here
<http://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_56/chandlery/Low-priced-PLS40-Caulk-Onboard_11763-1.html>

Thanks,
Kevin

On Mon, May 30, 2016 at 5:19 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Bettina
>
> Mike
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 29, 2016, at 11:44 PM, Bmue via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
> Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling
> Bettina
>
> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi Bettina
>
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
>
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
>
>
> ---- Bmue via CnC-List wrote ----
>
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it.
>
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige
> or whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches
> of old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip
> left on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
>
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of
> the kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done)
> and the boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during
> launch and at the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple
> of stanchions, fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes
> in the cockpit.
>
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats
> and blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is
> set that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some
> "special" kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off
> the roll and hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch
> on a Popsicle stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller
> couldn't reach.
>
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have
> a problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but
> I think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the
> rounded parts of the deck.
>
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there,
> but can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news,
> after three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the
> stuff somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left
> the caulk to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last
> time I was at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on?
>
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband
> finally came around.
>
> Bettina
>
> C&C 25 Savannah
>
>
>
> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > at
>
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> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
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