Marek and James,

Thanks guys.  Right.  I always forget it's about fusing for the wire gauge and 
length.  I have a 4' run of 4 gauge wire from each batt to the main switch, 
then a 5' foot run of 4 gauge to the starter motor on the A4.

However now that I look at the BlueSea systems chart for critical circuits I 
should be running 1 gauge for 150 amps (if that's really what the starter 
draws)... But I guess since the high amperage to the starter only lasts for a 
few seconds, then 4 gauge is sufficient?  

See here:

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg



> On Jun 5, 2016, at 7:44 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Adjustable backstay? (Ronald B. Frerker)
>   2. Re:  Adjustable backstay? (ALAN BERGEN)
>   3. Re:  Battery Terminal Fuses (Marek Dziedzic)
>   4. Re:  Battery Terminal Fuses (jtsails)
>   5.  Moved the boat to Whitehall (schiller)
>   6.  Standard Horizon Windspeed (John and Maryann Read)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 17:14:11 +0000 (UTC)
> From: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
> Message-ID:
>    <823419262.1145000.1465060451474.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely. ?As 
> you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and rotating 
> from the deck pivot point. ?As it rotates (pivots) backward it tightens the 
> forestay. ?That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a mast; no bending, 
> but more than an inch back and down. ?The thinner sections with multiple 
> spreaders and/or?babystays will get more bending. ?Both motions move the tip 
> of the mast back and down since the forestay is mostly fixed (it does 
> lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and more tension takes some 
> droop out). ?Since systems seek an equilibrium which reduces overall tension, 
> the babystay will loosen slightly with the bending, but will assist the 
> bending motion until equilibrium.Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course 
> by geometry alone. ?And tuning them starts with lighting a candle by the 
> hollow stump at midnight! ?Those with multiple spreaders are the devils own 
> design.RonWild Cheri
 C&C 30-1STL
> 
> 
> 
>      From: Sam Salter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: CNC-LIST <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> Cc: Sam Salter <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>
> Sent: Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
> 
> Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain 
> what I'm missing:
> Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay. Sure, 
> it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the forestay, but 
> mostly it's going to stay put.Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast? or 
> at least fixes it in space, fore and aft.When backstay is tensioned won't the 
> top move mostly down and push the middle of the mast forward, slackening the 
> baby stay?Tensioning the forestay? and taking draft out of the main.Do you 
> guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it??? 
>  sam?:-)C&C 26 Liquorice?Ghost Lake Alberta?
> 
>   #yiv7134972356 #yiv7134972356 -- _filtered #yiv7134972356 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 11:35:07 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
> Message-ID:
>    <CABnKnf1SaAHTPa=4h5nvrgv7i0wl2fsu+cuvqgx5+5dsuqn...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The babystay doesn't go slack.  The whole mast moves back, but more at the
> top than at the middle.  If you want to see the effect of tightening the
> backstay, look at the forestay, and sight up the mast from the side while
> the backstay is not tensioned too tight.  Then run a weighted line (or even
> your main halyard if the main is down) from the top of the mast to the
> boom.  When you tension the backstay, the top of the mast moves back; the
> middle of the mast moves back (less than at the top); the weighted line
> will move aft along the boom; the forestay will be straighter and you'll
> see the bend of the mast when sighting from the side from the boom to the
> top of the mast.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely.
>> As you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and
>> rotating from the deck pivot point.  As it rotates (pivots) backward it
>> tightens the forestay.  That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a
>> mast; no bending, but more than an inch back and down.  The thinner
>> sections with multiple spreaders and/or babystays will get more bending.
>> Both motions move the tip of the mast back and down since the forestay is
>> mostly fixed (it does lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and
>> more tension takes some droop out).  Since systems seek an equilibrium
>> which reduces overall tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the
>> bending, but will assist the bending motion until equilibrium.
>> Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone.  And tuning
>> them starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at midnight!  Those
>> with multiple spreaders are the devils own design.
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Sam Salter via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *To:* CNC-LIST <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Cc:* Sam Salter <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
>> 
>> Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
>> what I'm missing:
>> 
>> Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay.
>> Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the
>> forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.
>> Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast? or at least fixes it in
>> space, fore and aft.
>> When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the
>> middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?
>> Tensioning the forestay? and taking draft out of the main.
>> Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???
>> 
>> sam :-)
>> C&C 26 Liquorice
>> Ghost Lake Alberta
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 16:28:05 -0400
> From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
> Message-ID: <blu407-eas39891ee62bc2690ec79e55ce...@phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Ryan,
> 
> Select the fuse for the wire, not for the load.
> 
> I would put a 150 A - 200 A fuse on the starter wire (it is probably a 4 ga
> or better). Btw, these fuses can easily work through some higher current
> (even 50% higher) for a short while, so possibly a 100 A fuse would be fine.
> 
> On the house side, especially, if you never going to use it for starting the
> motor, you could get away with a 20 A fuse.
> 
> On my boat I have a dual fuse attachment on the battery - one 200 A for the
> big red wire (4 ga) and a 15 A for the other wires (one coming from the
> solar system, the other to the loads that don't go through the A/B switch
> (e.g. bilge pump). 
> 
> Something like this:
> https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_
> 300A 
> 
> It works great, provided you have enough room above the battery (it needs
> about a 1/2 inch extra on top)
> 
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
> Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 09:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would
> like to add them.
> 
> I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.
> 
> My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and fan
> and led light on and add up to 12.3 amps.  I have a new blue sea breaker
> panel and all new 14 ga wires throughout.
> 
> However, I have no idea what size fuse to put on the terminal of my starting
> batt.  The motor is an atomic 4.
> 
> Anyone know?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ryan
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 16:38:42 -0400
> From: "jtsails" <jtsai...@gmail.com>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
> Message-ID: <BDBB52C01D6A49F5900FC8E71B161FB6@DrT>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
> 
> Ryan,
> The purpose of the fuse on the battery terminal is to protect the wire (and 
> switches, etc) that runs from the battery to the panel. This fuse should be 
> sized appropriately by the wire size. For example, My house bank uses 6 ga 
> wire to feed the panel, so I have a 100 amp fuse on it. No matter what I put 
> on the other side of the breaker panel, the job of the battery terminal fuse 
> is to protect that 6 ga wire. I don't have much stuff on my boat, so that is 
> much more than enough capacity for my case. If I had a lot of high demand 
> stuff, I would need to resize the wire that feeds the panel (and resize the 
> fuse that protects that wire). For the start battery, things get a little 
> more interesting. A starter motor can draw a very high load when you first 
> hit the button. For your A4, most people use 4 ga wire with a 150 amp fuse. 
> In my case, I used the same 6 ga/100amp setup as the house bank and I have 
> not had any problem. Most people would not approve of my setup, they would 
> say that it would blow lots of fuses.
> James
> Delaney
> C&C 38 mk2
> Oriental, NC
> 
> -----Original Message----- 
> From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 9:32 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Ryan Doyle
> Subject: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would 
> like to add them.
> 
> I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.
> 
> My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and fan 
> and led light on and add up to 12.3 amps.  I have a new blue sea breaker 
> panel and all new 14 ga wires throughout.
> 
> However, I have no idea what size fuse to put on the terminal of my starting 
> batt.  The motor is an atomic 4.
> 
> Anyone know?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ryan
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated! 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 20:19:28 -0400
> From: schiller <schil...@bloomingdalecom.net>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Moved the boat to Whitehall
> Message-ID: <ccdfb97f-c452-f3df-83da-4dba4cd95...@bloomingdalecom.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Yesterday the crew (Glenn Gambel from the list and two other friends) 
> and I brought Corsair (Redwing 35) from South Haven, Michigan up the 
> lake to White Lake, Michigan.  A run of 69 nm.  We ended up motoring the 
> entire distance.  I have sailed on Lake Michigan for 24 years and have 
> been becalmed for a few hours from time to time.  Yesterday there was 0 
> knots gusting to 1 (as reported by three of the buoys we passed) for the 
> entire day.  We ran the Universal at 2350-2400 RPM making 6-6.2 knots 
> from 0840 until 1915.  I would estimate that we used 4.5 to 5 gallons of 
> diesel for the trip.  We did finally see some wind about 4.5 nm south of 
> the White Lake channel directly astern.  We elected not to hoist sails.  
> A good run and nice to be in our new home.  Now I need to think about 
> changing my port of call at my next document renewal.  Many thanks to my 
> crew and Corsair.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> Whitehall, Michigan
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> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 07:44:07 -0400
> From: "John and Maryann Read" <johnpr...@comcast.net>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed
> Message-ID: <003501d1bf1f$9230fb30$b692f190$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
> years old.  You may recall I was getting erratic readings.  Removed the
> sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
> Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine.  Took sending unit home,
> disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
> angle.  Everything looked OK.  Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
> reassembled.   Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.  Yesterday
> crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine.  Reinstalled sending
> to mast head -  works fine!!  Best guess is the sending unit design is a
> sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer.  After many years salt air and
> condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
> with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
> sensitivity of the unit.  Apparently the cleaner resolved.
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps someone else in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 
> 1982 C&C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ---
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