On Jun 5, 2016, at 7:44 AM, [email protected] wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Adjustable backstay? (Ronald B. Frerker)
2. Re: Adjustable backstay? (ALAN BERGEN)
3. Re: Battery Terminal Fuses (Marek Dziedzic)
4. Re: Battery Terminal Fuses (jtsails)
5. Moved the boat to Whitehall (schiller)
6. Standard Horizon Windspeed (John and Maryann Read)
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 17:14:11 +0000 (UTC)
From: "Ronald B. Frerker" <[email protected]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
Message-ID:
<[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely.
?As you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and
rotating from the deck pivot point. ?As it rotates (pivots) backward it
tightens the forestay. ?That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a
mast; no bending, but more than an inch back and down. ?The thinner
sections with multiple spreaders and/or?babystays will get more bending.
?Both motions move the tip of the mast back and down since the forestay is
mostly fixed (it does lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary and
more tension takes some droop out). ?Since systems seek an equilibrium
which reduces overall tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the
bending, but will assist the bending motion until equilibrium.Frac rigs
get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone. ?And tuning them
starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at midnight! ?Those with
multiple spreaders are the devils own design.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
From: Sam Salter via CnC-List <[email protected]>
To: CNC-LIST <[email protected]>
Cc: Sam Salter <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
what I'm missing:
Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay.
Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the
forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.Baby stay puts pre bend into
centre of mast? or at least fixes it in space, fore and aft.When backstay
is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the middle of the
mast forward, slackening the baby stay?Tensioning the forestay? and taking
draft out of the main.Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full
of it???
sam?:-)C&C 26 Liquorice?Ghost Lake Alberta?
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 11:35:07 -0700
From: ALAN BERGEN <[email protected]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
Message-ID:
<CABnKnf1SaAHTPa=4h5nvrgv7i0wl2fsu+cuvqgx5+5dsuqn...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
The babystay doesn't go slack. The whole mast moves back, but more at the
top than at the middle. If you want to see the effect of tightening the
backstay, look at the forestay, and sight up the mast from the side while
the backstay is not tensioned too tight. Then run a weighted line (or
even
your main halyard if the main is down) from the top of the mast to the
boom. When you tension the backstay, the top of the mast moves back; the
middle of the mast moves back (less than at the top); the weighted line
will move aft along the boom; the forestay will be straighter and you'll
see the bend of the mast when sighting from the side from the boom to the
top of the mast.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sat, Jun 4, 2016 at 10:14 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:
Sam, like you said, the mast is more or less fixed, but not completely.
As you decrease backstay length the mast has two motions, bending and
rotating from the deck pivot point. As it rotates (pivots) backward it
tightens the forestay. That's about all I get with my tree trunk of a
mast; no bending, but more than an inch back and down. The thinner
sections with multiple spreaders and/or babystays will get more bending.
Both motions move the tip of the mast back and down since the forestay is
mostly fixed (it does lengthen slightly since it's a bit of a catenary
and
more tension takes some droop out). Since systems seek an equilibrium
which reduces overall tension, the babystay will loosen slightly with the
bending, but will assist the bending motion until equilibrium.
Frac rigs get a lot more bending of course by geometry alone. And tuning
them starts with lighting a candle by the hollow stump at midnight!
Those
with multiple spreaders are the devils own design.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL
------------------------------
*From:* Sam Salter via CnC-List <[email protected]>
*To:* CNC-LIST <[email protected]>
*Cc:* Sam Salter <[email protected]>
*Sent:* Friday, June 3, 2016 9:50 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Adjustable backstay?
Looking at this as an engineering problem (I don't have a 30-2) - explain
what I'm missing:
Top of the mast is more or less fixed (fore and aft) by the forestay.
Sure, it will move back an inch or two when it takes up slack in the
forestay, but mostly it's going to stay put.
Baby stay puts pre bend into centre of mast? or at least fixes it in
space, fore and aft.
When backstay is tensioned won't the top move mostly down and push the
middle of the mast forward, slackening the baby stay?
Tensioning the forestay? and taking draft out of the main.
Do you guys see the baby stay go slack or am I full of it???
sam :-)
C&C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 16:28:05 -0400
From: Marek Dziedzic <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Ryan,
Select the fuse for the wire, not for the load.
I would put a 150 A - 200 A fuse on the starter wire (it is probably a 4
ga
or better). Btw, these fuses can easily work through some higher current
(even 50% higher) for a short while, so possibly a 100 A fuse would be
fine.
On the house side, especially, if you never going to use it for starting
the
motor, you could get away with a 20 A fuse.
On my boat I have a dual fuse attachment on the battery - one 200 A for
the
big red wire (4 ga) and a 15 A for the other wires (one coming from the
solar system, the other to the loads that don't go through the A/B switch
(e.g. bilge pump).
Something like this:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/2151/Dual_MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_
300A
It works great, provided you have enough room above the battery (it needs
about a 1/2 inch extra on top)
Marek
Ottawa, ON
-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ryan
Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 09:33
To: [email protected]
Cc: Ryan Doyle <[email protected]>
Subject: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Hey guys,
My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would
like to add them.
I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.
My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and
fan
and led light on and add up to 12.3 amps. I have a new blue sea breaker
panel and all new 14 ga wires throughout.
However, I have no idea what size fuse to put on the terminal of my
starting
batt. The motor is an atomic 4.
Anyone know?
Thanks,
Ryan
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 16:38:42 -0400
From: "jtsails" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Message-ID: <BDBB52C01D6A49F5900FC8E71B161FB6@DrT>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Ryan,
The purpose of the fuse on the battery terminal is to protect the wire
(and
switches, etc) that runs from the battery to the panel. This fuse should
be
sized appropriately by the wire size. For example, My house bank uses 6 ga
wire to feed the panel, so I have a 100 amp fuse on it. No matter what I
put
on the other side of the breaker panel, the job of the battery terminal
fuse
is to protect that 6 ga wire. I don't have much stuff on my boat, so that
is
much more than enough capacity for my case. If I had a lot of high demand
stuff, I would need to resize the wire that feeds the panel (and resize
the
fuse that protects that wire). For the start battery, things get a little
more interesting. A starter motor can draw a very high load when you first
hit the button. For your A4, most people use 4 ga wire with a 150 amp
fuse.
In my case, I used the same 6 ga/100amp setup as the house bank and I have
not had any problem. Most people would not approve of my setup, they would
say that it would blow lots of fuses.
James
Delaney
C&C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2016 9:32 AM
To: [email protected]
Cc: Ryan Doyle
Subject: Stus-List Battery Terminal Fuses
Hey guys,
My 1976 30mki did not come with fuses at the battery terminals and I would
like to add them.
I have a simple system with two batteries - one starting and one house.
My house loads if I'm running the autopilot and I have every blower and
fan
and led light on and add up to 12.3 amps. I have a new blue sea breaker
panel and all new 14 ga wires throughout.
However, I have no idea what size fuse to put on the terminal of my
starting
batt. The motor is an atomic 4.
Anyone know?
Thanks,
Ryan
_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2016 20:19:28 -0400
From: schiller <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Stus-List Moved the boat to Whitehall
Message-ID: <[email protected]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
Yesterday the crew (Glenn Gambel from the list and two other friends)
and I brought Corsair (Redwing 35) from South Haven, Michigan up the
lake to White Lake, Michigan. A run of 69 nm. We ended up motoring the
entire distance. I have sailed on Lake Michigan for 24 years and have
been becalmed for a few hours from time to time. Yesterday there was 0
knots gusting to 1 (as reported by three of the buoys we passed) for the
entire day. We ran the Universal at 2350-2400 RPM making 6-6.2 knots
from 0840 until 1915. I would estimate that we used 4.5 to 5 gallons of
diesel for the trip. We did finally see some wind about 4.5 nm south of
the White Lake channel directly astern. We elected not to hoist sails.
A good run and nice to be in our new home. Now I need to think about
changing my port of call at my next document renewal. Many thanks to my
crew and Corsair.
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
Whitehall, Michigan
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2016 07:44:07 -0400
From: "John and Maryann Read" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon Windspeed
Message-ID: <003501d1bf1f$9230fb30$b692f190$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Just circling back on the fix for my WS150 instrument which is at least 20
years old. You may recall I was getting erratic readings. Removed the
sending unit from mast head, plugged into receiver and worked fine.
Continuity from mast junction to receiver was fine. Took sending unit
home,
disassembled and discovered small circuit boards for both the speed and
angle. Everything looked OK. Sprayed in electronic cleaner, let dry and
reassembled. Attached to receiver, worked fine and calibrated.
Yesterday
crew went aloft and continuity of wire in mast is fine. Reinstalled
sending
to mast head - works fine!! Best guess is the sending unit design is a
sleeve within a sleeve with an o ring sealer. After many years salt air
and
condensation fouled something in the circuit boards that became an issue
with the longer wire run of the mast given the very small wire gauge and
sensitivity of the unit. Apparently the cleaner resolved.
Hope this helps someone else in the future.
John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
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