I use stabilizer and don't bother running the carb dry. I don't know if I
buy that bit of logic anyway because the bowl doesn't empty just because
you run the carb "dry". There's still fuel in there, that's my layman's
understanding, anyway. So I stick to the K.I.S.S principle and don't mess
with running the fuel lines dry. Marvel Myster Oil in the spark plugs
before winter is an excellent suggestion, I do that too - then I hand crank
a few times to circulate the oil.
So far I've never had any issues with the old A4. It gets new plugs, new
ignition components and fresh oil more than regularly.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Tue, Oct 11, 2016 at 9:02 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I had an A4, I would typically just pull the hose off the through
> hull and stick it in a jug of glycol, start the engine and let it run until
> I saw it at the exhaust..  I'd usually do another gallon after it started
> coming out the exhaust.  easy peasy!  You DO NOT want to add pressure to
> the intake side if you're still connected at the exhaust without the engine
> running.  You will push water into the engine.  It is best to use the
> engine's usual working condition to pull the glycol through.  If you have a
> thermostat, run the engine on fresh water until it warms up.  You can just
> run a hose into a bucket and suck the water through the same way you would
> with the glycol.  With a thermostat that will only take a few minutes.
>
> This is exactly the same way I do my current diesel engine.
>
> Moyer also suggests pulling the plugs and adding some marvel mystery oil
> to each cylinder.  He also recommends running some MMO in the gas.
>
> Remember to cut the gas valve and run the engine out of gas or fog it or
> something so that gas isn't sitting in the bowl all winter.
>
> Danny
>
> On 10/11/2016 7:24 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List wrote:
>
> My first haul-out with a new-to-me 1980 C&C30 with an Atomic 4 as well. I
> like the idea of using the shop-vac to blow the water out. Do you connect
> that to the same location - at water intake hose disconnected from seacock ?
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> *Subject: **Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4*
> *Date: *October 10, 2016 at 10:27:53 PM EDT
> *To: *"C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
>
> You can plumb in auxiliary suctions that will let you draw glycol straight
> out of the jug.  If you haul the boat you can stuff a tygon hose up the
> through hull and beer bong the glycol into the engine.  Or you can try the
> seaflush.  I have one and it works, though it might be a bit over priced.
> I like using the shop vac to blow the water out.  That may actually be
> sufficient.   I am cautious though and carefully consider the possibility
> of stagnant loops of water.  So, despite "blowing out"  the engine, I also
> run glycol.  The nice thing is that I don't have to worry as much about the
> water diluting the glycol.  It takes way less glycol to provide freeze
> protection.
>
> http://www.seaflush.com/sea-flush-1/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Oct 10, 2016 9:50 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming up in a
>> few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run antifreeze through the
>> raw-water cooling system until it comes out the exhaust.  My main question
>> is how to get the antifreeze into the raw water intake.  I've seen a gadget
>> made from a toilet plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone,
>> that can be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
>> in a bucket of antifreeze.  Any other recommended techniques?  Any other
>> general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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