Not that this will help with the Nut problem, but I changed out my electronics and depth sounder so my chart plotter/depth display now gets its depth readings from a "In-Hull" transducer that shoots the beam through the hull. The transducer screws to a mount. The mount is glued/epoxied in place to the Hull.
Best thing is it works great, makes for simple troubleshooting and changeout and above all with NO issue of water leakage. Sent from my iPhone > On Oct 26, 2016, at 07:11, Dave S <[email protected]> wrote: > > Mike, I assume the nut is effectively glued in place by the existing bedding > compound on the threads (and face of the nut) and that both the fitting and > nut are plastic? > Ease of removal will really depend on what bedding material was used. If it > was 5200 or something equally tenacious you might be permanently screwed.... > removing the plywood (with the help of a trained squirrel...btdt ;-) ) > might help by eliminating a bunch of glued surface area, but you will still > need to grip the fitting below the threaded portion (is the plywood thick?) > and spin the glued nut. > You could try gentle heat. it has been cold up here lately, and some > materials really harden up in the cold. Solvent might help. rigging a > pipe wrench and bungee cord for gentle,consistent pressure too, yuou might > get it to "creep", especially when its warmed up. > I assume you can remove the sender from the through-hull, and you are only > dealing with the through-hull fitting itself. Is a replacement through hull > available? When all is said and done, might it not make sense to simply > replace that fitting and spend your time with fresh surfaces a pristine > fitting, and a clean reliable install? (and maybe ditch the plywood) It's > really awkward working in that space, and life is short... > > my C$.02... > > Photo here of glass backing plate for through hull, senders replaced last > spring. > > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/making-fibreglass-parts.html > > Photos of uneeded 33-2 through hull holes eliminated. A trained squirrel did > the interior work under the v-berth.. > > http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html > > > Dave (another 33-2 just east of yours...) > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 14:31:17 -0400 > From: Joel Aronson <[email protected]> > To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Depthsounder > Message-ID: > <cael16p-eoszmsoa91uxbgw2wc8at1cmxq9dkts6dmiy6fvo...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > You should be able to get enough wood out with a chisel or dremel so you > can loosen the nut. If you are brave, a multi-tool would also work. Just > don't make any extra holes! > > Joel > > On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > > Hi all, > > > > I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as > > the throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually > > stops after a few days once the plywood expands. > > > > Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder? > > > > As a first step, I attempted to back off the plastic locking nut, but of > > course it doesn't seem to want to budge. Any suggestions before I just use > > brute force and just break it off? > > > > Mike > > Atacama 33mkii > > Toronto > > Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. > > Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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