Reminder:  You can only "shoot" a depth transducer through an un-cored
section of the hull.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~


On Wed, Oct 26, 2016 at 9:26 AM, Rodney Meryweather via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Not that this will help with the Nut problem, but I changed out my
> electronics and depth sounder so my chart plotter/depth display now gets
> its depth readings from a "In-Hull" transducer that shoots the beam through
> the hull. The transducer screws to a mount. The mount is glued/epoxied in
> place to the Hull.
>
> Best thing is it works great, makes for simple troubleshooting and
> changeout and above all with NO issue of water leakage.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 26, 2016, at 07:11, Dave S <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Mike, I assume the nut is effectively glued in place by the existing
> bedding compound on the threads  (and face of the nut)  and that both the
> fitting and nut are plastic?
> Ease of removal will really depend on what bedding material was used.   If
> it was 5200 or something equally tenacious you might be permanently
> screwed....  removing the plywood (with the help of a trained
> squirrel...btdt ;-)  )  might help by eliminating a bunch of glued surface
> area, but you will still need to grip the fitting below the threaded
> portion (is the plywood thick?)  and spin the glued nut.
> You could try gentle heat.  it has been cold up here lately, and some
> materials really harden up in the cold.   Solvent might help.   rigging a
> pipe wrench and bungee cord for gentle,consistent pressure too, yuou might
> get it to "creep", especially when its warmed up.
> I assume you can remove the sender from the through-hull, and you are only
> dealing with the through-hull fitting itself.   Is a replacement through
> hull available?  When all is said and done, might it not make sense to
> simply replace that fitting and spend your time with fresh surfaces a
> pristine fitting, and a clean reliable install?   (and maybe ditch the
> plywood)  It's really awkward working in that space, and life is short...
>
> my C$.02...
>
> Photo here of glass backing plate for through hull, senders replaced last
> spring.
>
> <http://goog_1547099665>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/p/making-fibreglass-parts.html
>
> Photos of uneeded 33-2 through hull holes eliminated.  A trained squirrel
> did the interior work under the v-berth..
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-
> joint-closing.html
>
>
> Dave   (another 33-2 just east of yours...)
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2016 14:31:17 -0400
> From: Joel Aronson <[email protected]>
> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Depthsounder
> Message-ID:
>         <CAEL16P-EosZmSOa91UXBgW2WC8aT1cMXq9DKTS6dmiy6fvotAQ@mail.
> gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> You should be able to get enough wood out with a chisel or dremel so you
> can loosen the nut.  If you are brave, a multi-tool would also work.  Just
> don't make any extra holes!
>
> Joel
>
> On Tue, Oct 25, 2016 at 12:13 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > I need to replace the plywood backing plate and rebed my depth sounder as
> > the throughull has been leaking the past couple of seasons. It usually
> > stops after a few days once the plywood expands.
> >
> > Is there any way to do this without destoying the depth sounder?
> >
> > As a first step, I attempted to back off the plastic locking nut, but of
> > course it doesn't seem to want to budge.  Any suggestions before I just
> use
> > brute force and just break it off?
> >
> > Mike
> > Atacama 33mkii
> > Toronto
> > Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
> > Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell.
> > _______________________________________________
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> _______________________________________________
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