Randy:

    The drawing for my boat does not show perfectly plumb – that was the point. 
 The drawing showed a slight rake.  It would be easier in a drawing to draw a 
mast perpendicular to the side view, but the drawing for the 42 shows a slight 
rake.  We surmised that C&C must have had a reason for expending the 
extraordinary effort of showing a slight rake on a drawing.  By doing a little 
math, we were able to figure out from the drawing what that rake is, which I 
duplicated in the field.  I’m sure it’s not perfect, but I think we got close.

    The reason it was so important to get it right with the Spartite plug is 
that once you make one, the mast is pretty much staying there.  With wooden 
blocks at the partners, you can move things around to make adjustments, 
including adjusting the rake for various conditions if you want.  With a 
Spartite plug, once it’s done it’s done.  I also made Spartite chocks in the 
mast step box, so nothing moves from the deck down.  When I’m going through 
8-10 footers on Lake Erie, I like it that way.

    It’s Matt by the way.  Hope your project is going well.

    MLW 

From: RANDY via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance

Thank you all for the excellent responses.

Matthew, figuring out what C&C's intentions were, for aft mast step elevation, 
is what I'm trying to do.  I assume they intended for the mast to perfectly 
plumb when the boat is sitting on her designed waterline in perfectly calm 
water and calm air.  Then rig tuners would set the rake from there.  Of course, 
those aren't the conditions I'm working in, so it's all guesswork (levels are 
useless with the boat on the trailer).

Michael, interesting point about heel at the foot of the mast.  I'll check that 
out today.  I assumed the foot of my mast is flat, and makes contact all the 
way around the mast box.  I agree the side-to-side level is critical - from rig 
tuning last year, I believe Grenadine's is off (the aft end of the mast block 
lists to port, requiring more halyard tension to touch the starboard rail than 
the port rail, and I couldn't correct that via upper shroud tension without 
bowing the mast).  That should get corrected by the new aft support, assuming I 
cut it and install it correctly.

Rick thanks for the reminder about the owner's manual rig tuning instructions 
cautioning against forward rake.  I follow those instructions to the letter for 
rig tuning, and you're exactly right, I set 8" of rake on Grenadine.  Regarding 
my 30-kt experience, it was on June 22nd last year - see archived wind graph at 
http://wx.iwindsurf.com/map#39.548,-105.08,14,1,!11170,7.  We had 
light-to-decent wind for our race at 6:30, so I was flying all that sail.  Then 
after the race the wind really piped up and I wanted to learn how Grenadine 
would behave under that press of canvas.  At the moment of that 30-kt (true) 
gust just after 8:00, I was on starboard tack close reach, trimmed for that 
point of sail, going 7.6 knots according to GPS (with fixed 2-blade prop even), 
with five people on the rail, and my genoa tore before I got a rail in the 
water.  That's how stiff a 30-1 is.  Of course I had a hell of a lot of weather 
helm in those conditions, and I was within about an inch or another degree of 
heel of burying the rail.  I've yet to learn what it takes to bury a rail on a 
30-1.  If Grenadine had had a folding prop at the time, I believe she could 
have touched 8 knots.  Will find out this year :)

Given all these great responses, I think I'll split the difference and cut the 
aft support to the elevation indicated by the dashed line in 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTU3hRNmZoMUU1MFk.  Thanks again 
everyone.

Cheers,
Randy


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 9:27:38 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance


Randy;



I could have sworn that I have seen a table that lists the initial mast rake 
for various C&C models built in the 70’s, but I’m not able to find it.



The rig tuning information on the Photo Album, and the information in the 
owner’s manuals that came with my 25 mk1 and my 38 mk2 all show the same 
information about setting up the mast rake:



On a 24, the target for initial rake is 6” measured at the gooseneck. For the 
38, the target is 10”. Looking up the I dimensions and doing a little math says 
the initial target for your 30-1 would be 8” of rake. But the instructions 
indicate (and this could have changed over time) that some sailmakers prefer no 
rake when they make the sails, and caution against having any forward rake in 
the mast. The process recommended in the manuals is to set the mast up (close 
to vertical is implied) and then adjust the forestay and backstay to achieve 
the target rake. Then put in the mast wedges, go sailing, and do any 
appropriate tweaking.



Your post indicated weather helm in 30 knots (I’m presuming apparent) with full 
main and #2 genoa. I’m not surprised. With wind that strong and a full main I 
would expect the boat to be standing on its ear and rounding up unmercifully , 
or to see that the main was trimmed almost fully out and basically flogging. I 
find that both of my boats are fastest and most comfortable with a max of about 
18-20 degrees of heel, YMMV, so I tend to reduce sail in the following pattern:

About 15 apparent – reduce genoa (starts from 155 on the 25 and 135 on the 38)

About 20 – 1st reef in main

About 24 – reduce genoa again (which brings me to a 110 Lapper on the 25 and 
about 100% on the 38)

Depending on conditions but around 26-27 – 2nd reef in main

Remember that the force generated on the sails is proportional to the square of 
wind speed, so wind at 20 apparent generate 4 times the force of wind at 10, 
and wind at 30 generates 9 times the force at 10. So the boat will go just as 
fast with smaller sail up in higher winds.



Anyway, in response to your initial question, my recommendation would be to set 
up the mast step so the mast was vertical – or nearly so -for an initial 
position and then adjust the rake with fore and aft stays per the C&C 
instructions.



Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC









From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2017 3:12 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
Subject: Stus-List Mast Step Pitch & Helm Balance



Listers-



Seeking your input here.  I'm in the middle of the mast step rebuild project a 
la http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm.  Lots of 
pictures of the project at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E.



I'll be cutting new supports from laminated GPO-3 slabs Saturday night or 
Sunday morning.  Before installing the new supports, I have to decide on the 
elevation of the aft support.  Of course I took careful elevation measurements 
from the cabin sole before removing the original supports.  But the question 
is, what was the original shape of the top of the aft support?



I believe the middle of Grenadine's aft support, under the mast step block, was 
compressed down from its original elevation due to a combination of weakness in 
the support and standing rigging tension (especially backstay).  Have a look at 
the pictures and you can clearly see what I mean, e.g. 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTLXZuXzd1T1pkR28.  This 
compression has the effect of pitching the mast step aft, thereby moving the 
masthead aft, thereby increasing weather helm (which I've definitely noticed 
under enough wind and sail - it was strong under full main and #2 genoa in 30 
kts, not surprisingly).



However I also believe that the original elevation of the aft support may have 
been carefully tuned for helm balance, prior to compression below the mast step 
block due to weak wood and standing rigging tension.



The reason this elevation question matters so much is because, using 
trigonometry, I can calculate the distance by which different elevations of the 
aft support will move the masthead forward or aft, which in turn will affect 
helm balance.  Each quarter inch of aft support elevation difference could move 
the masthead about three inches I believe.



The last picture 
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTU3hRNmZoMUU1MFk) in the Google 
Drive folder linked above shows the templates from which I'll cut the new 
supports, traced from the original supports removed from Grenadine's bilge.  I 
hypothesize that the dashed line I drew at the top of the aft support template 
may have been the aft support's original elevation.



I'm halfways tempted to split the difference and cut the new aft support to 
have that elevation.  Of course, I could be full of crap, because I tune the 
mast rake using the stays after all, which probably influences helm balance 
more than mast step pitch.  And of course I can control the sail selection and 
sail trim, which probably influence helm balance more than mast step pitch.  
However, for a given sail selection close-hauled, with neither the backstay nor 
forestay over-tensioned, the mast step pitch would certainly influence the 
masthead position and therefore the combined center of effort of the sail plan.



What say ye?  Does anyone out there know if the top of the original aft mast 
step support on a 30-1 was flat all the way across, or did it come from the 
factory with a little elevation drop to tune helm balance?  I'll be committing 
an assumption about that to a GPO-3 slab with my jigsaw in the next day or two.



Thanks in advance,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO


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_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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