Through years of experience with air leaks and low fuel I've learned how to
bleed my 3HM35F quickly. On mine there is simply no need to touch any of
the bleed screws. The entire system is almost self priming. When I was
buying the boat we had a mechanic working on the engine and he said that he
never used the bleed screws, they strip out too easily. Instead he uses
the banjo fittings. This can be nearly as bad as stripping the bleed
screws since the banjo fittings rely on copper washer gaskets which are
supposed to be one time use. That being said on multiple occasions one of
the bleed screws has come loose of been stripped resulting in an engine
shutdown and a scramble to establish control of the boat. I now have the
culprit bleed screw epoxy puddied in place. On the extremely unlikely
chance that I need to bleed I will loosen the banjo fitting. In this case
it is the fitting that attaches the hard fuel pipe directly to the HP
Bear in mind that I have a second 3HM35F in my garage and have successfully
primed it without loosening fittings or bleed screws as well so my
experience with the boat isn't just a one off.
I have a priming bulb in the supply line from the tank. It has much higher
capacity and as such works way better than the lift pump for
priming/bleeding the engine. While you're trying to get the engine primed,
you should also be using the decompression levers to reduce load on the
starter and spin the engine faster. This will get more fuel to the
injectors and faster.
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
On Aug 6, 2017 4:02 PM, "svpegasus38 via CnC-List" <email@example.com>
> A friend in the club has a LF38 with a 3gm yanmar. Ran it out of fuel, now
> can't get it bled. We have fuel to the last chance fuel filter, but I can't
> find the bleed screw on the injector pump. Have tried to bleed the injector
> lines at the injectors to no avail.
> Anybody familiar with this we would love to hear.
> Thanks in advance.
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> Rebecca Leah
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