Me too. A cute little crapsman Shop-Vac that lives invisably under my chart
table. Blows the lines out, sucks to initiate a prime, - and even does some
vacuuming on occasion. Not something that a hard core racer would have on board
all the time, but I don't sweat the small stuff!
Regards,
Bill Coleman C&C 39
-------- Original message --------
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <[email protected]>
Date: 10/9/17 17:12 (GMT-05:00)
To: [email protected]
Cc: Josh Muckley <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck. I
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is
great for around the boat anyway.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List <[email protected]>
wrote:
Marek,
Thank you for your very detailed procedure.
What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
<[email protected]> wrote:
Tom,
This is how I do it:
1. drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)
2. drain water from the water heater
3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with
TWO valves
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass)
4. disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online (e.g.:
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples
etc.).
6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for
each faucet on cold and hot wa
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