Josh,
A great description of the process. I see some rudder inspection in
my future.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
[email protected]> wrote:
> Ron,
>
> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice.
>
> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft
> is juat a spacer. The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down
> but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps
> it in place. This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling
> to get caught.
>
> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful. Its a bit time releasing
> the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered
> is also time consuming. Not hard just time. Be careful though when there
> is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain
> in the pedistal. To prevent this lock the wheel. You will also have to
> monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning
> sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall. That's the trick part.
>
> The radial wheel is easy. Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you
> may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering
> the radial wheel. If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the
> height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier
> during reassembly. A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes
> right off. Now is the time to bead blast it and paint. I don't know why
> they didn't from the factory. I found that I had insufficient washers for
> the nut and bolt heads. They had been eating away at the aluminum with
> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear. Use tef-gel or marlube and
> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and
> the aluminum wheel).
>
> Now for the real problem. Once the wheel is off you will want to support
> the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the
> hard. A hydraulic jack is perfect for this. The rudder weights 100 to
> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible. With the
> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy. They are held by a single
> bolt running through the rudder shaft. Just remove the nut and at least
> one should come off. They are bronze and getting new ones machined is
> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr. I suspect that corrosion on
> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed. This may complicate
> removal. PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick.
>
> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should be
> pretty trouble free. Make sure you look for any other cause as you
> disassemble. I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of
> the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling.
>
> If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the rudder
> and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft. I use the
> same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop. If I was going to do it again I
> would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient
> than the rudder shaft. 2 actually, one for the top and one near the
> bottom. Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if
> possible.
>
> Good luck. Let us know what you find.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
>> rudder.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
>> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder. The wheels
>> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID
>> and 4”OD. My wheels are frozen and do not turn. When the rudder is
>> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it. I’ve tried to reach in,
>> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck. It looks like I may
>> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the
>> wheels.
>>
>>
>>
>> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be
>> issues removing it? Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?
>>
>>
>>
>> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and
>> the hull. With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and
>> rotate around the rudder shaft. I guess when the rudder lifts up, the
>> bushing provides a bearing surface. Does this sound correct?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> *Ron*
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>>
>> S/V Patriot
>>
>> C&C 37+
>>
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> [email protected]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
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>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list -
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>
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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