Thanks to everyone for their replies. All of this information is very helpful.
On Saturday, January 20, 2018, 10:20:42 PM EST,
<cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: C&C 30 Mast Step (Michael Brown)
2. Re: Keel bolt torque (John Christopher)
3. Re: C&C 30 Mast Step (Edward Levert)
4. Re: Keel bolt torque (Josh Muckley)
5. Re: Keel bolt torque (John Christopher)
I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than a
specific species.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak
Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak is
very good for marine use.
Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we had what was reported to be one
of the larger stands
of White Oak in Canada. A developer needed to beat a pending municipal law
concerning cutting of mature
trees so early one morning a team of loggers came in and clear cut the whole
property. I tried to get some
of the wood knowing its properties. The crew laughed and said I didn't want it,
they could barely cut it even
with sharp chains.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 13:38:23 -0500
From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast Step
Message-ID: <03803e6a-8ee7-4d53-845a-d02dc3e63...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak.
Bill Bina
Hi Josh,
Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one
of your subs) :)?
/J
On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs
were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the
threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads
with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The
3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a
little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize
the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to
monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last
night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible
minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output
drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating,
to use one.
We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the
torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud,
and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but
the preparation was a very important part.
I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 =
85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm)
1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 =
205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16
(56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm)
255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access
ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and
checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and
the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is
going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to
tell myself that it was done correctly.
That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the
hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel-
reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.
I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm)
600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5
- 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1
1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks,
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
______________________________ _________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
When the mast step was rebuilt on my 30-1, the professional used fiberglass
laminate for the stringers. I use the word professional with emphasis. He was
the boatright for the Olympic teams in England and China. Wood no mater how
well sealed in a wet environment makes no sense to me.
Ed LevertBriarpatch C&C 35New Orleans
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 20, 2018, at 11:34 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I had though "Live Oak" was a generic term for how some Oaks grew rather than a
specific species.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Live_oak
Either way despite the lack of knowing the correct description the right Oak is
very good for marine use.
Sad but years ago near me in Barrie Ontario we had what was reported to be one
of the larger stands
of White Oak in Canada. A developer needed to beat a pending municipal law
concerning cutting of mature
trees so early one morning a team of loggers came in and clear cut the whole
property. I tried to get some
of the wood knowing its properties. The crew laughed and said I didn't want it,
they could barely cut it even
with sharp chains.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2018 13:38:23 -0500
From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast Step
Message-ID: <03803e6a-8ee7-4d53-845a-d02dc3e63...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
Old ships used Live Oak, which is a very different wood than White Oak.
Bill Bina
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Ask and you shall receive.
https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 12:47 PM John Christopher <phygi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Josh,
Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one
of your subs) :)?
/J
On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs
were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the
threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads
with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The
3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a
little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize
the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to
monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last
night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible
minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output
drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating,
to use one.
We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the
torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud,
and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but
the preparation was a very important part.
I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 =
85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm)
1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 =
205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16
(56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm)
255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access
ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and
checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and
the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is
going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to
tell myself that it was done correctly.
That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the
hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel-
reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.
I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm)
600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5
- 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1
1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks,
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Nice! Thanks...
/J
On Jan 20, 2018, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
Ask and you shall receive.
https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 12:47 PM John Christopher <phygi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Josh,
Were you able to video the process? If so will you upload to YouTube (I’m one
of your subs) :)?
/J
On Jan 19, 2018, at 7:51 PM, Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:
I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs
were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the
threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads
with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The
3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a
little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize
the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to
monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last
night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible
minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output
drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating,
to use one.
We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the
torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud,
and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but
the preparation was a very important part.
I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated.
https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque 3:1 multiplier1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 =
85 x 32 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 33 - 2 3/16 (56mm)
1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 34 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 =
205 x 35 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 36 - 2 3/16
(56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 37 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm)
255 = 85 x 38 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Ok Guys,Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access
ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and
checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and
the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is
going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to
tell myself that it was done correctly.
That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:- be on the
hard- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel-
reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.
I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.
Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud
torque1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3502 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm)
600?3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?5
- 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 4506 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600?7 - 1
1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 3508 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80
Anything I'm missing?
Thanks,
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
CnC-List mailing list
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
