Thanks Rick,

So far I've removed the nut and large washer plate from the end of both
seacocks and exposed the inner drum (yesterday) and sprayed liquid wrench
liberally into the creases, into the drain/greasing plug holes, and I
stopped up the seackocks from underneath the hull and sprayed intensively
down both scuppers to coat the inside of the valve. I removed the handles
and put a wrench on this morning and applied pressure and also banged with
a rubber mallet to no avail.

There's simply no room in there to tap the end of the threaded part with
anything. Some kind of compression jig would be ideal but I can't think of
anything right now that would fit on there. I have a huge monkey wrench in
storage that will probably break them free, or I can try the long pipe
trick but I won't have a chance to do anything else until Sunday - will
send an update then!

Thanks for all the help guys!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 11:41 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan;
>
>
>
> The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve –
> kind of like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.
>
>
>
> The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug
> that looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline.
> There is a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered
> plug into the tapered body of the through hull.
>
>
>
> If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove
> it, just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to
> soak in a bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet.
> Neither the nut or the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A
> sound tap or two will move the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break
> the bond of the internal corrosion.
>
>
>
> When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you
> don’t damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the
> valve. A smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially
> what keeps water from leaking around the plug.
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
> *To:* CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
> the removed hose?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
> in the top?
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
> in there and doing it's thing...
>
>
>
> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
> adhered to the hull.
>
>
>
> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>
>
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Dan,
>
>
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
> was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan <dgcorm...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
>
>
> photos on google drive:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
>
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
>
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
>
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
>
>
> What should I do?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C&C44
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
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