If we are talking about the water pressure pump…

My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the 
past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the 
pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant 
(almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling 
(about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns 
itself off, when the tap is closed.

I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the 
pump).

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or 
three diaphragms.  There are often inlet and outlet check values as well.  The 
checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat 
alternately as a drive motor runs.  As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in 
the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer 
seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow.  One of the first 
symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming).  Since 
air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces.  If the 
pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back 
pressure to seal the seating surfaces.  You can then pull water from the tanks. 
 As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump 
will continue to work.  Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal 
the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the 
pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump.

Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater 
tanks, will degrade rubber components over time.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
assistance hopefully.

The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much 
on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the 
pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. 
Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, 
checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution 
gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the 
galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this 
gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them 
while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is 
pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, 
confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me 
from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing 
exploratory work at the dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch 
from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not?

Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be 
an alternate question?

Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy

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