Oh yeah don't forget.  Tubing is measured by the OD and piping is measured
by the ID.  So 1/2 tube visual and hydraulically functions similar to
3/8ths pipe.

Josh

On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 5:47 PM Josh Muckley <[email protected] wrote:

> Accumulator tanks should have an air bladder and the air pressure should
> be adjusted to half that of the pump shutoff.  Really these help prevent
> excessive cycling at the pump shut off pressure.  They don't eliminate
> cycles when the system is being used and don't really change anything when
> the pump is on.
>
> I agree with the smaller diameter tubing.  Depending on your needs you
> might even consider 1/4" tubing.  You have to remember that when you use
> larger tubing/piping it takes more glycol to winterize, and more flush
> water to clean it out in the spring.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 3:07 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> Listers:
>>
>>     I replaced my potable water tank last year and discovered that the
>> water system must have a leak in one or more of the ancient
>> hoses/fittings.  I decided that it’s time to replace the old hoses and
>> check/replace fittings, and I’m considering also adding an accumulator
>> tank.  The hose currently coming from the tank is 5/8” ID, but the
>> accumulator tank I’m thinking about adding to the system accepts 1/2” ID
>> hose.  Two questions: 1) are small accumulator tanks worth the cost and
>> effort to install; and 2) is there any benefit of using 5/8” hose instead
>> of 1/2” hose (or vice versa).  Please advise.  Thanks.
>>
>> Matt Wolford
>> C&C 42 Custom
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