Paul,
Current capacity or ampacity of the wire is a great consideration for the
charge efficiency of the solar charging system.  Minimizing line loss is
critical as well as optimizing/matching the charge voltage (voltage felt by
the battery) and the panel output voltage.  A duplex wire as you suggested
would benefit from being as large as reasonable achievable.  For the
preexisting windlass I would not be surprised to find that those wires are
0 or 00.  6awg seems to be on the small size.  With heavier gauge wire
already running between the battery and the bow, the losses would be
insignificant.

 A 0 gauge wire carrying 12v at 20amps for 50 ft would have 1% voltage
drop.  1 gauge wire at 15 amps would only lose 1% and 3 gauge wire would
carry 10 amps with 1% drop.

Don is effectively suggesting the creation of a remote battery bus.
Without proper bus bars it would not be "wrong" to just attach the new
circuit with a ring terminal to the line (hot) side of the windlass switch
and the ground side of the windlass.  There are ABYC provisions for
attaching more than one ring to a stud.  Use an inline fuse (automotive
style would be fine) to protect the new circuit.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Apr 4, 2019, 12:21 PM Dreuge via CnC-List <[email protected]>
wrote:

> I think you would be better off running a separate duplex wire back to the
> controller near the batteries.  It’s a long run, so the size of the wire
> will depend on the current.
>
> Let’s assume a 25 ft length of duplex wire, then that's 50 ft of wire both
> ways.  The tables for a 3% voltage drop recommends at least  6AWG for 15
> amps.  That’s good for about 250 Watts.  Since most panels produce 16-20
> Volts output, you gain by having the controller near the battery (higher
> voltage means lower current through the wire resulting more watt
> capacity).  Having the controller up front would results in a 3% voltage
> drop of the regulated voltage making battery charging much less efficient.
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Apr 4, 2019, at 11:30 AM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2019 08:39:54 -0600 (MDT)
> From: DON JONSSON <[email protected]>
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Stus-List Dual purpose of windlass electrical wires?
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hi All
>
> Sort of a weird question, but hopefully someone has some insight.
>
> We have been struggling with where to put solar panels on our C&C 34.  We
> now think that we will get a couple of flexible panels and leave them free,
> at least for now.  The plan would be to put them out on the fore deck when
> at anchor in the beautiful BC sunshine.  What we don't want is wires
> running all over while they are sitting out.  So we thought a couple of
> plugs mounted in the chain locker with the wires running back to the
> battery inside the cabin.  That way when stopped we would place the solar
> panels in the most appropriate spot on the fore deck with short wires
> running forward to the plugs inside the anchor locker, and then long wires
> running inside out of view to the batteries at the back of the boat.
>
> So there are already a pair of very large cables running from the windlass
> to the batteries.  Is there some way to leverage those cable for connecting
> the solar panels.  Just inside the front of the Vberth is where the cables
> connect to the windlass controller.  We could connect the controller for
> the solar panels there which would then connect directly to the batteries,
> through a breaker, and the ground bus bar via the existing cables.  Or
> possibly put the controller back by the batteries?
>
> Comments?
>
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C&C 34
> Victoria, BC
>
>
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