Welcome to the list. I know you will like the new boat.
When I installed roller furling on my 38, the manufacturer of the furler (Bamar, an Italian company) specifically recommended against installing it on a rod forestay. They indicated that dirt could collect in the synthetic bushings inside the foil, and that over time as the foil rotated the rod could get scored resulting in a stress riser and the potential for early rod failure. It seems like a pretty low probability for that type of failure, but they should know their product. I installed my furler with a compacted wire (also called Dyform wire) headstay. You may want to check with Harken to see what their policy is about rod Headstay with their furlers. Subsequent to installation of the furler, about 9 years ago, I had a D2 shroud on the 38 part during a somewhat rough and windy passage across Pamlico Sound. Sounded like a 22 caliber rifle going off, and the bottom of the windward D2 was waving in the wind. Made me question the integrity of the rest of the rod rigging, which was about 34 years old at the time. Navtec indicated that a dye inspection of the rigging was not sufficient (perhaps just in my care). The cost to remove the rigging and ship it to Navtec for x-ray inspection was in the neighborhood of $3500. If they could rehead and reuse it, the cost of reheading would have been extra. My rigger and I decided to rerig the boat using Dyform wire for the shrouds, backstay, and babystay. The wire is a few thousandths larger in diameter than the rod replaced (slightly more windage), a few pounds heavier than the rod replaced (so slightly more weight aloft, which might be a consideration of you are a serious racer), but actually has a slightly higher break strength than the rod. Swage fittings for Dyform wire that replace the ends of the rod and allowed reuse of turnbuckles, spreader ends, and the OEM mast attachments for the shrouds are easily obtainable. We elected to use Norseman fittings on the bottom of wire shrouds to simplify the installation. For the sailing that I do – cruising and the occasional charity regatta – I’m very happy with the rerigging. And one of the added benefits was that completely replacing the rod with Dyform wire cost only slightly more than what having the old rod inspected by Navtec was going to cost. Of course, YMMV, but replacing old rod with new wire is pretty doable. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk2 #47 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 #225 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mazen Aziz via CnC-List Sent: Friday, July 24, 2020 3:15 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Mazen Aziz <mazen.a...@olympian.org> Subject: Stus-List 35-3 Hi all, New 35-3 enterprise owner Here in the Bay Area. Love the boat and want to take your opinions here. Boat has original standing riggings and currently going thru changing halyards and standing riggings. Few questions, 1- planning to change my forestay twinstay rod with wire system harken furler. Is this a good move? 2- back stay is a rod hydrolic system and planning to change the system with a wire system too, any recommendations on what to go with? 3- lastly and most important, all the standing riggings are rod and heard it’s very challengy to change it to wire. Should I keep it a rod system? Is it smart to go half wire for the front/back stay and half rod for the standing riggings? Appreciate your time here in advance and would love to meet local C&c sailors too, MAZEN AZIZ https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz “To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is home. “Jerry Crawford "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you think." Zaha Hadid "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
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