Thanks for all the input. I spent all day yesterday on the problem with two trips to Defender for parts. I realized that I had detached the ground wire when I unbolted the fuel pump and when I reattached the ground, it started clicking away. I then hooked up a new fuel line from the tank pickup to the fuel pump bypassing the filter etc and ran the outflow into a container. It ran fine and rapidly pumped fuel. At first, the sound was off, but once it had fuel, the sound was normal. So I think the pump is fine and the odd sound I heard when the problem started was the fact that it was pulling air instead of diesel since the bowl was not filling. That result makes the lines between the fuel tank and the pump suspect, which is what everyone was saying was the likeliest possibility. I replaced the fuel filters first (trip to hardware store for filter wrench as I could not get it off by hand). I got some more fuel line (first trip to Defender) and tried to install it and found that the nipple on the fuel tank was 3/8” and someone had somehow gotten ¼” ID tubing onto it. All the other fittings are ¼” as was the tubing. I could not duplicate that feat, so went back to Defender and replaced the nipple with a ¼” version. It was really hard to get the new tubing onto the nipples and I spent the rest of the rainy afternoon trying to replace various segments of the tubing. I thought it best to replace all while I as doing the job. That turns out to be a lot of nipples in a lot of difficult to access places. So my real problem now is how to get the tubing onto those nipples as they are are generally not a gradually increasing gradient of sized rings, but two bulges of equal diameter separated by a straight portion. 1. The nipple I put on the fuel tank is a gradually increasing sized as opposed to the other type. Is that a bad idea? I am not sure of the logic of using one type vs. the other. I can see that the gradual type might allow the tube to gradually work its way off, but I don’t know if that is possible with a hose clamp in place. 2. How to get the tubing onto these nipples. I struggled with this and mostly failed. After I gave up, I ran into a friend at my club who suggested putting soap on the nipple and sticking the end in hot water for a few minutes before trying to install. I think I can get to most places with a mug on hot water so this seems like a good idea, if it works. I could bring the boat to the dock and use a heat gun (no 110V on boat), but it seems hot water will more uniformly heat the tubing, especially inside which is hard to get to with a heat gun. Any other hints? Thanks- Dave
David Knecht Rear Commodore Thames Yacht Club New London, CT > On Sep 23, 2021, at 5:22 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER <cscheaf...@comcast.net> wrote: > > On my boat the ground wire has a ring terminal attached to the pump foot. > The original pump was screwed to the inside of the engine box with wood > screws and the ground came loose during the delivery home. I later through > bolted it for better reliability and no problems since. Knock on wood. > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute, 1989 34R > > > >> On 09/22/2021 10:16 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >> >> I am trying to diagnose fuel issue. I dont understand pump wiring. There >> appears to be only one wire to pump. Where is it grounded? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with >> the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - >> Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
