Doing the same job on Talisman as we speak. Luckily, I have John Read in the same yard, he advised me to pull them out as my stb side had some play in one of them after pulling pin and deck plates. Discovered some wet blas that extends about three inches around the cutout. Have holes drilled around deck to ensure that the rest is dry and removed the wet balsa. Will be backfilling with expoxy to fill the voids and then will be using butyl. I am hopeful I can use waxpaper and the actual chain plates to use as forms. So far it looks like port is dry, will do some investigation there this weekend.
From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2022 10:54 PM To: Stus-List <[email protected]> Cc: Bruno Lachance <[email protected]> Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplates 33-2 Mike, I have removed and rebedded my port chainplate on my 1987 no166 33mkii. On my boat at least, I can confirm that the deck area core around the chainplate is the same bug putty you find elsewhere on the boat. So solid core and no balsa. Mine was solid with no sign of water intrusion. The big SS rod inside has a head that sits in the aluminum block under deck and that combination is prone to galvanic corrosion and may be seized. The tension of the chainplate is adjusted by the turnbuckle at the base of the rod. You should hold the rod while adjusting the turnbuckle. I adjust the tension by eye… I want them tight but I don’t want to pull the deck. ( without any shrouds attached Or with looses shrouds) If you remove all tension and are not able to move/turn the rod, then you know it is seized in the aluminum block. This is not dramatic in my opinion. My port side was a bit stiff, caused by surface corrosion, but there was no sign of structural degradation. I don’t remember the torque used to reassemble the bronze bolts that hold everything in place, but I’m sure I must have tightened it enough… Unfortunately I was not able to remove the starboard side, the bronze studs are seized in the aluminum block. I tried different things but gave up. The deck is dry, and I manage to stop a small leak by squeezing butyl tape from outside a round the head of the bronze studs. I see the aluminum block has some corrosion but it is pretty thick so I am confident it is still plenty strong. Hope that helps. Bruno Lachance Bécassine 33-2 New-Richmond, Qc Le 14 avr. 2022 à 18:12, Dave S via CnC-List <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > a écrit : Mike - mine don’t move at all and the nuts are very tight. Can’t recall if you leave your mast up but I suspect that when the rigging is tensioned yours won’t move. I’d make sure I check the bottom end of that rod and make sure it’s attachment is sound. I had one of the four bolts leak and I rebedded and and tightened it up without crushing anything. I haven’t confirmed 100% but I suspect the deck is solid in this area. Dave 33-2 windstar Sent from my iPhone On Apr 14, 2022, at 3:40 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote: Hi all, I'm about to start rebedding some of my deck hardware on my C&C 33 mkii (1986) and have moved onto the chainplates. Inside the boat, there is a tie rod that is connected to the hull and runs up to an aluminum block on the underside of the deck. The block is directly under the chainplate; the block and plate are connected by 4 bolts that go through the deck. It is my understanding that the tie rod has a head that is inside the block and that one can rotate the rod to tighten or loosen it and the head just turns on the aluminum. Here are my questions: The starboard tie rod moves slightly if I really pull on it. Can I tighten it up just by turning it? Also, the nuts holding the block to the chainplate are not very tight. Presumably they shouldn't be too tight or that could crush the deck. Does anyone know how much they should be tightened? Right now they are not even what I would call "snug". Thanks in advance, Mike Atacama 33mkii Toronto
