Hey Rob,
 
Thanks for pointing that out.  Some boatyards are keeping shrinkwrap separate, 
not all.
 
C

> On 08/30/2025 9:01 AM EDT Robert Abbott via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Chuck:
> 
> Shrink wrap material used at our club goes to be recycled and not to a 
> landfill.  Each Spring the club arranges for a large dumpster to be located 
> in the boat yard and if the boat owner is discarding the shrink wrap, into 
> the dumpster and taken away to be recycled.  There should be no need to put 
> in a landfill.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
> On 2025-08-29 2:25 p.m., CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> > Been following this thread and learning. 
> >  
> > I wanted to add that here in the northeast, we suffer some storms in the 
> > winter where snow accumulates on the tarp, and during the day, the sun 
> > melts it and creates a heavy concentrated load on the material.  If the 
> > material stretches at all, like tarps from the box stores, the snow forms a 
> > puddle of ice that further strecthes it and it either rips the material or 
> > it breaks the frame somewhere.   High winds can also damage the deck if a 
> > frame is tied to stanchions.  One of mine tore a hole in the deck and I had 
> > to replace the fiberglass and fair and paint.   A friend braces his 
> > stanchions with wood 1 x 4s braced against the cabin sides.
> >  
> > The shrink wrap material doesn't stretch as much as nylon tarps, but it's 
> > so expensive and fills up the landfill.  Canvas covers seem much better, 
> > but take up storage space in the off season.
> >  
> > Not the best idea, but I protect my boat with a smaller tarp over the 
> > cabintop that rests on cockpit cushions and fenders to add pitch.  That 
> > covers the cabintop and genoa tracks but leaves the side decks clear, and 
> > gets pulled tight to the toerails using sashcord.  It keeps the snow and 
> > ice from getting into the nooks and crannies, but doesn't protect the whole 
> > boat. 
> >  
> > Whatever protection you choose, visit the boat regularly once or twice a 
> > month through the winter, to charge the batteries and check the tarp and 
> > lines.  I pick a nice day and drive to the boat, plug in the charger, 
> > adjust the tarp, check the boat for mold, etc, then meet up with friends 
> > for lunch.  After lunch, I go back to the boat and disconnect the power 
> > line before driving home.  I never leave power connected when I'm away from 
> > the boat for extended periods.  I don't like to see other boats with 
> > chargers and heaters and dehumidifiers powered all winter.  It's too risky 
> > for me.  I prefer boatyards that require owners to disconnect power 
> > whenever you're away from the boat.  It's much safer.
> >  
> > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis
> >  
> >  
> >  
> >     
> > 
> > > On 08/29/2025 12:20 PM EDT Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
> > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > > I used the Kover Klamp system during Calypso's 10 year restoration 
> > > project. (http://www.koverklampframes.com). The cover material was up all 
> > > year and would last 4 years before I needed to renew it. Kover Klamp's 
> > > tie down fittings worked great with C&C's "holey rail".  The system 
> > > survived steady winds into the mid 40's and gusts to the mid 50's.
> > >  
> > > I built the frame similar to Don's. PVC and spinnaker pole. I also second 
> > > the suggestion to make frame with enough pitch to allow snow to slide 
> > > off. It's best to prevent water from pooling as the weight can cause 
> > > problems.
> > >  
> > > Martin DeYoung
> > > ex Calypso, 1971 C&C 43
> > > ex Windsong, 1980 C&C 36
> > >  
> > > now
> > > 1956 Matthews 42 classic power boat
> > > Port Ludlow, WA
> > >  
> > > 
> > > ---------------------------------------------
> > > From: Don Kern via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2025 4:17 PM
> > > To: John Christopher via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > > Cc: Don Kern <don-k...@cox.net> mailto:don-k...@cox.net
> > > Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat covers
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Being an old Yankee, a shrink wrap cover is used instead of a fabric 
> > > cover, and it has remained in good condition for seven years. Made for 
> > > snowy environments, the cover sheds snow effectively. My boat is a C&C 
> > > 35-2. For height, a 3” PVC pipe is mounted from the mast step to roughly 
> > > 40” above the cabin top mast partners, with the spinnaker pole lashed to 
> > > the bow pulpit and then to the pseudo mast.   From there a ¾” galvanized 
> > > link fence rail tubing extends to approximately 24” above the aft pulpit. 
> > > This setup allows for easy access over the transom and adequate stand-up 
> > > space in the cockpit. To prevent the cover from sagging, ¾” fiberglass 
> > > tape is run diagonally from port to starboard stanchions over the peak. 
> > > The entire process typically requires about half a day for two people to 
> > > set up and secure.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Don Kern
> > > C&C 35-2, Fireball
> > > Bristol. RI
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > 
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> > 
> > Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to 
> > keep it active.  Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal 
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> > 
> Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to 
> keep it active. Please help by making a small contribution using PayPal at: 
> https://www.paypal.com/paypalme/stumurray All contributions are greatly 
> appreciated.
> 
Your contributions help pay the fees associated with this list and help to keep 
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