What a yoke!

[dhill]

As an old lawnmower man, unplug the spark plug and lay it aside. Now 
grab the cable with the contact point with your right hand, thumb and 
first finger. Now put your little finger on the engine.  If you can't 
grab the starter rope, have someone else give it a little yank. No 
compression means a fast pull.  If the shock barely numbs you, the 
points need adjusting. If the jolt cracks your finger's nuckle, the 
points are adequately set, so you don't need to pull the fly wheel 
and adjust it.  Unfortunately, newer models have done away with 
points under the flywheel. The same procedure will tell you whether 
you need a new magneto.

With the classic pulled apart and the CRT exposed, loosen the screws 
that tighten the yoke, if the picture is cockeyed. Now turn the 
computer on and once you got the displayable area, using a plastic 
spoon, gently move the yoke one way or the other to get the picture 
area right. Now you can turn it off and retighten the yoke, or if you 
have a plastic screw driver retighten it. Me? I just use a regular 
long screwdriver to tighten the yoke while computer is on, because I 
am a lawnmower man, who quite working on them because of back 
problems. Working on a Mac is about the same bend and it is a killer.

Now, go to the analog board and find the little adjustments and 
adjust your picture.

If the tube is blown, no big deal.  Get a known good computer which 
you don't plan to use, ... maybe a bad cover. Usually for me, it is 
replacing a bad SE/30 tube with a plain SE tube.

If the SE tube is adjusted fine and looks great, then go for it. You 
gotta have a long hex screw driver. I use an electric screwdriver 
with an extension and then tear up a small torq screwdriver. The 
ridges on the outside of the metal torq screwdriver general fits 
snuggly into the extension.  Don't mess with the tube, the yoke or 
the analog board.

Undo the torq screws on three of the  monitors corners, including the 
ground screw.  The other one is too deep and out of sight for you to 
get to it.

Now switch to a small Phillips which comes with your electric screw 
driver. You do not need to unscrew all of them, just the ones on the 
outside. Now, slowly pull the analog board up and out a bit to get to 
the last torque screw. Using your electric torq screw driver 
(homemade) pull out the last one. Now lift off the analog board and 
the monitor.

Now you are ready for a "heart" transplant to an SE/30. Once done, no 
other adjustments are needed.

Go in and get a hydrocordone pill and break it in half.  Take one 
half pill with water and lay down while the ol' back to recovers.

When you have pallets of baby Macs, especially SE's, SE FDHDs, and 
SE/30, try to salvage the 30s.  The SE Superdrive is a keeper since 
it is a bit rarer. Changing out a Radio Shack Model 4P monitor is 
more difficult.

Dale yoke, yoke!
--
Caddo County Harpman - ccharpman! "If you can't harp the blues, then 
you ain't a  harp player." (Eladicious 5,02) ADD RE to TIRED and you 
get me - X-Public School Educator.  Macintosh is to computers as 
Mercedes is to cars. Check out my Quark.html page. 
http://www.dalehill.us/

--
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