Success, I was hoping my amateurish suggestion would provoke someone with
more experience to chip in.

I used a el-cheep-o heat gun held several 6 inches or so from the board to
provide more gradual and dispersed heating to prevent heat shocking the
components. Though when I compare it to seeing boards coming out of a reflow
oven it seams a little tame.

On 9/18/03 12:02 PM, "Jeff Walther" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>> Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 01:55:58 -0400
>> From: Benjamin Berry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
>> I don't know what it would do to the rest of the components but I've found 5
>> minutes of exposure to a heat gun ( for paint stripping ) to loosen solder
>> right up. Works great on multi pin through hole components.
> 
> I like that method, but there are some things to watch out for.
> 
> First, know your heat gun.  A professional strength heat gun may burn
> your board, because it seems to put out a much higher temperature
> than other guns.   I use a Milwaukee brand heat gun I bought at Home
> Depot which has a dial on the back for adjusting temperature.   I
> don't know how good this one would be for stripping much paint, but
> it's great for desoldering.
> 
> Second, limit your time.   I've found that most through-hole and
> surface mount stuff will come off in one to three minutes of
> exposure, but it varies greatly and, of course, depends on the
> temperature setting on the heat gun.  So, when I'm doing through-hole
> stuff, I poke at the solder with a dental pick every fifteen seconds
> or so.  When the dental pick starts penetrating the solder, it's
> almost done.  When I'm doing a large surface mount chip, I gently
> (very very gently) pry at a corner of the chip with the dental pick,
> until it lifts with next to no force.   I usually put a digital watch
> nearby so that I know how long I've been heating the board.
> 
> Third, don't blow away neighboring components.   The first time I
> used a heat gun on a circuit board was on a PCC Power 120 with a bad
> CPU.   I got the CPU off okay, but I literally blew away half a dozen
> surrounding components.  They came loose and flew away with the hot
> air.   I spent three months trying to get a detailed look at another
> Power 120 so I could figure out what went where*.    Cover
> neighboring components with modeling clay so that they don't blow
> away.   It only takes a thin layer, so a small box of modeling clay
> will last you most of forever.  It's not a terrible idea to make a
> high resolution scan before starting, but that won't show you the
> tiny markings on a surface mount resistor.
> 
> Oh, and having a ~5x magnifying cup handy doesn't hurt either.
> That's the kind you can hold in place with the skin around your eye.
> It gives you magnification on your work with your hands free.  This
> useful for soldering and usually not needed for desoldering.  One of
> those lamps/magnifiers on an arm is probably better, but they can be
> expensive, and the magnifying cups are under $5 in the jewelry
> section of Ebay.    Oh, but your depth perception goes, so be careful
> with the soldering pencil.  I had a very hard to explain burn mark
> across my nose for a while...
> 
> * I finally managed it at the PCC going out of business auction.  A
> really nice security guard there let me open one of the Power 120s up
> and sit there on the floor and copy down the values of the various
> resistors and such that I needed.  He even moved one of the heavy
> floor lamps over to provide light for me.   That was a really nice
> guy.
> 
> Jeff Walther
> 


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