----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following any advice in this forum.]----
Hi Guys,
Maybe I'm out of line by jumping in here, but I think I have something
that you might want to
'consider'.
I fianally made it to Oshkosh this year, (my first time) and while I
was
there I met John Wright Sr.
He mentioned that his son repairs, rebuilds, or whatever, Ercoupe fuel
tanks
and is (if I remember
correctly) FAA approved in his repairs.
I have no idea what the cost is or any of the details about it but it
might be worth contacting him
before you get to deeply into any 'home repairs' and see what he can do
for
you as this would be a
permenate fix as opposed to a (maybe) temporary fix and this way it would
also be a 'legal' repair.
No slam intended on the guy who fixed his own, just an alternative.
And
remember, 'Big Brother' is
always looking for unauthorised repairs as a way to avoid insurance
payoffs,
ground planes on ramp
checks, etc.
As I said, just something for you to consider. If it was my car gas
tank that was leaking I'd
probably do exactly what was suggested to you. However, on my coupe, I
think I would choose a different
method.
BTW, "JB Weld" did a 'wonderful' and easy job on my tractor gas tank
that had some small pinholes in
the bottom. The gas was 'dripping' right onto the hot cylinder head while
I
was driving it, talk about
an explosion waiting to happen!!! I've used my tractor two more seasons
since I repaired it (without
removing the tank) and so far it's still holding as if it was a new tank.
(Of curse if it should ever
happen to start leaking again and catch fire I could jump off and run.
It's
a little different when
you're up in a plane, it would be a good idea to get on the ground first
before you jump out and run!)
Just something to think about.......
Bob Saville
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> ----[Please read http://ercoupers.com/disclaimer.htm before following
any
advice in this forum.]----
>
> Welcome Mile; Alons are terrific Aircoupes. Is yours one of the A2-A's
> that
> was put out originally without rudder pedals?
> The first hurdle to repairing your tank is to remove it from the
aircraft.
I
> have found that you may remove the Alon fuselage tank by first removing
the
> right hand instrument panel and loosening any wiring that needs to be
> removed. Be sure to tag/mark any wiring you need to take loose so it
will
be
> put back the way it was. Once you have the right hand area clear, you
can
> loosen the strap that holds the tank (I am assuming it is empty, but if
not,
> drain the fuel BEFORE you loosen the strap). Then you can work the tank
> down,
> out of the filler neck grommet, and by turning it a little, you can pull
it
> out through the opening left when you removed the right hand instrument
> panel.
> Once you have the tank removed, you need to clean it thoroughly and
inspect
> it for signs of further deterioration other than the large crack you
> described. The last Alon tank I repaired had 5 separate pin hole leaks,
plus
> a front corner that was corroded over an area about as large as a
quarter.
> When I probed it, the material just disappeared and left a big hole. The
> tank
> can be repaired by soldering (low temperature aluminum welding using a
> propane torch) a patch over the crack, or by cutting a hole large enough
to
> allow access to enable you to place a piece (s) on the inside with nut
> plates. You make a patch to go on the outside which is larger than the
hole
> and drill the tank so that the patch can be fastened securely to the
tank
> with screws into the nut plates you put on the inside. When you assemble
the
> patch to the tank, you must use PRC 890 fuel tank sealer all under the
> patch.
> Another possibility is to have the crack welded, but that requires
> considerable expertise working with thin (the tank is made of .050 or
.060)
> aluminum, and a TIG welding outfit. If you have access to someone who
makes
> or repairs aluminum tanks, they may be able to help you. After the
repair
is
> complete, the tank must be pressure tested to ensure that there are no
more
> leaks.
> Removing the sloshing compound will be/is a messy and tedious job. MEK
will
> soften and eventually loosen the sloshing compound. I heard that it
takes
> about 3 gallons of MEK used over a 2 to 3 day period to soften and
remove
> the
> sloshing compound. I have not done it myself, but I have heard the
process
> described. If you do it with the crack, you will have a problem with the
MEK
> wanting to leak out of the crack, but I am sure you can figure out how
to
> put
> the crack side up and minimize the leakage.
> In any case, the tank can be repaired, but if you have to pay shop rates
to
> do all the above, you may be better off biting the bullet and buying
that
> new
> tank.
> Good Luck
> Lynn Nelsen N99387 52FL
>
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