And if you are not flying the a/c much, do not use a semi-synthetic oil. The semi's are so slippery that the majority will drain down and not leave a coating of oil on your bearings. Makes a cold start real interesting inside there. CHANG THE OIL NOW! Al
Mi Vida Loca wrote: > At 09:02 PM 4/19/98 -0700, you wrote: > >Don Mack wrote: > >> > >> I noticed some rust on the top of the oil dipstick above the oil line. > >> Any suggestions as how to remove and prevent it in the future? > >> > >> Don Mack > >> [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> http://www.flash.net/~donmack > > > >Hi Don, > > Here are a couple of suggestions; > > > >1- Sand blast it (or bead blast, I'd use sand) and then wash it VERY > >GOOD in a solvent, diesel fuel, gasoline or ? and blow it off really > >good with compressed air to be sure that every bit of the sand and rust > >particles have been removed. I don't know of anything I'd want to treat > >it with afterwards that I'd want inside my crankcase. I'd coat it good > >with the same oil you use in your engine. Someone else out there may > >know of something to treat it with, but the factory sent it out just > >bare metal and I think that's a pretty good indication of what to do. > >Of course you know that the rust was caused by condensation. A hot > >engine sitting and cooling down in a humid area. Thus, moisture inside > >the engine. > > > >2- Buy some NAVAL JELLY at a building supply store and spread it on with > >a small brush, let it sit (per instructions) and then rinse it off. Two > >or three applications may be required to get it all and it may be > >impossible to get it "all" this way. (up where the stick is fastened to > >the cap will be difficult to work the jelly into.) > > > > Personnaly, I'd go the sand method and be very careful to rinse it all > >out. Most engine (auto) overhalul shops have a sand blaster or bead > >blaster. I have one out in my shop, it comes in really hady at times. > >(I like to restore old trinkets, tools, etc. I found an old pipewrench > >burried in the ground not to long ago, it was in such bad shape that I > >couldn't break it loose to turn the knurled adjusting cylinder. I > >sandblasted it, cleaned it and painted it with a rattlecan and it looks > >brand new except for a minimal amount of wear on the jaws.) > > Good luck Don, I hope this helps you. > > > >Bob Saville > >N3396H > >Eugene, Or. > > Personally I have seldom seen anyone ever able to get all the sand off, > which is why you will never see an aircraft painter use sand blasting to > strip an plane for painting. Yes they do use dry ice to strip blast them > but it leaves no residue. I would worry less about the rust you are getting > on the dipstick and more on the rust you are getting inside your engine. > The reason you are getting the rust is that your engine has been flown for > short periods of time and the oil has not gotten up to full operating temp > for long enough to allow all the moisture to boil off. You have had > condensation inside your oil tank and probably elsewhere. Bottom line here > is fly the wings off your bird. If the cosmetic of the rust bothers you use > the naval jelly or a scotch brite pad to clean off the rust. I'm not big on > sand in my oil even though I use a filter, just a matter of choice though. > > Dave > 41 Charlie > Dave's Ercoupe Page > http://www.flash.net/~dmprosvc/dave
<<attachment: winmail.dat>>
