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On 01/27/01 10:41:09 you wrote:
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forum.]----
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>Hello fellow e-group coupers,
>   I was reading this following letter on list, and wanted to know what
>your thoughts were. I basically think the fellow is probably making a
>mistake trying to paint his plane with boat paint. What does everyone
>else think? I would hate to see him do so and have some major problems
>after.
> 
>"Subject: Paint 
>Hi fellow RV Builders 
>                I'm currently building
>the flaps and ailerons for my rv-8. I am trying to decide if I should
>paint the components as I go along before assembly or take the aircraft
>apart and paint it later. Any advice about this? 
>                Also, I have a friend
>who does professional boat painting. I have seen his work on sailboats
>and it is excellent. He has offered to do the painting and is suggesting
>Awlgrip paint. Is there any reason I should be wary of someone who is a
>pro but has never painted an aircraft.? Also, what about Awlgrip, is it
>as good as any for aircraft or is there something better, Immron for
>instance? Any help would be appreciated.  
> Redd
>
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>
The type of paint that is being discussed (Awlgrip or Imron) was
originally DESIGNED for 
aircraft.  They needed a tough paint that could withstand rain, snow,
dirt, and other 
particles striking it at hundreds of mph.  When these paints first came
out, Indy car 
builders started using them for their cars.  They used to have to paint
the noses of the 
cars after every race, due to being sandblasted by dust and dirt at 200
mph.  When they 
started using these two-part paints, they could go the whole season
without re-painting  
-as long as they didn't smack them up in accidents!  Other users then
jumped on the 
bandwagon, and started using them for boat hulls, emergency vehicles, and
hundreds of 
other uses.

There are two drawbacks that I am aware of when using them.  The first is
that the 
surface must be PERFECT.  ANY scratches will show through.  This paint is
very thin, and 
will not fill imperfections.  Being this thin can also be an advantage
though.  Many boat 
restorers (myself included) will roll this paint on, followed by someone
"tipping" the 
paint out with a brush.  They brush vertically, and then horizontally, in
a small area 
with lighter and lighter pressure.  This minimizes the running of this
thin paint, and 
helps take out the roller marks and spread the paint evenly.  The thinness
of the paint 
allows the brush marks to fall out.  It looks like it was sprayed!  In
fact, this brings 
up the other disadvantage.  This paint is quite toxic, primarily to the
liver.  If you 
spray it, you need a proper positive pressure breathing apparatus.  If you
roll it, this 
is less of a factor because it doesn't put particles in the air -but you
had better have 
great ventilation.  I have been told that the only advantage to spraying
is that you can 
cover an area faster.  Their is NO impact on the quality of the shine or
durability.  By 
the way, be sure and use the recommended primer before painting.

There are several books available at Boat U.S. and other marine stores
about using these 
paints.  Some of the marine shows on Speedvision (the cable network
dedicated to cars, 
boats, motorcycles, and aviation) that have "how-to" segments have shown
how to paint 
with these paints.  I have seen 40+ ft. sailboats that have been painted
with a roller 
that had mirror-like surfaces, thanks to good surface prep and following
the 
instructions.  I have also seen show-winning homebuilt aircraft at Oshkosh
that were 
painted in just this way.  If it works on a Learjet, I think it will hold
up on an RV-8 
-or a coupe!  

Michael J. Nutt
Warren, MI

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