You don't need to remove the camshafts. Line everything up at TDC first before you take the belt off. It should all line up already. You'll see two holes, one on each camshaft, right next to the sprockets. You can insert a pin there when the cams are at TDC to lock them in place. It makes the whole business much easier. The tensioner is in the center of the block. Make sure you loosen it before you put the new belt on and tighten it once it's in place. There is a place on the block right below the tensioner that provides a good point to pry the tensioner up slightly before tightening the bolt. It doesn't auto-adjust so you'll need to take care of it by hand.
If you're not sure everything is lined up at TDC, don't just start the motor to double check. Also, the belt should be "not loose" but you don't have to be able to play music on it so don't over do it. Last but not least, the crankshaft dampner (pully) bolt. It is a PITA without air tools or a flywheel holder. -Kristian On Mon, 8 Jul 2002, Willy wrote: > I noticed this weekend that my timing belt is a little loose. So I'm > going to change it out. Other than having to get around the motor > mount, what all is involved? I know I have to remove the valve cover > (which will be a perfect opportunity to trim the cover and polish > it..HE HE!) But do I need to remove the cam shafts too? How do I set > the tention?... > > Is this one of those "holy shit, what did I get myself into" projects? > > > > ===== > Willy > 89 CRX LS/Si B18B > 16X7 Enkie CDR9's (center blue caps on order), Tenzo CAI, > 2 1/4" exhaust, with Hooker Header Aerochamber, and Hooker Header resonated tips,NGK >plugs, wires, and distributor upgrades, Tenzo short throw shifter. > Clear corners, custom grill inserts > http://home.attbi.com/~wbetters/ > http://home.attbi.com/~wbetters/news.htm > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free > http://sbc.yahoo.com >
