On 01:40 PM 09/04/02 -0400, George Freeman said...
>Finally,
>
>I have the cause of the road noise. First I thought it was the tires, but
>when the car was on the lift, we found out I was wrong :0 -> the rear
>bearings have had it. Around 55 mph the roar is so loud from the rear I
>can't hold a conversation on the cell phone (I normally don't use the phone
>in the car unless I have to).
>
>The parts listings at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com show the following two
>parts:
>
>BEARING ASSY., HUB UNIT (FUJIKOSHI) $97.92
>BEARING ASSY., RR. HUB UNIT $97.92
>
>Does the second part only replace the Right Rear (RR) or does it matter?
>
>Also, the Helms has a note: "after tightening the spindle nut, use a drift
>punch to stake the spindle nut shoulder onto the spindle" What the ****
>does this mean? Anyone done the rear bearings? TIA!
>
>
>
>George
>'89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 123k miles
>"Seats, Suspension, Engine, MSD, next=dyno"
I've only done a 1988 Honda Civic rear-bearing and I don't recall having to
use a drift punch. But what it sounds like to me is that they want you to
use one after you've torqued the spindle down (I think it's 130 ft.lbs. or
somewhere in that area) and then follow it up with the drift punch.
On some of my past non-Honda cars, I had to do that in order to get the
cotter pin through the hole because the spindle nut almost always covered
it. I don't know if the CRX uses a cotter pin or not. On the Civic I did,
there was none that I recall.
In case you (or anyone) is wondering what a drift punch is:
http://www.toolcloseouts.com/default.asp?CATEGORY_ID=15&PRODUCT_ID=1901
What you also want to do is to try and break the spindle nut free while the
car is still on the ground. If you try to do it while on the jack stands,
you run the risk of knocking the car off the stands.
Otherwise it's a pretty straight forward job -
1. Loosen the spindle nut while the car is still on the ground.
2. Jack the car up and place it on a set of stands.
3. Remove the wheels followed by the spindle nut.
4. Release the parking brake.
5. Remove the brake drum followed by the hub unit.
Installation is in the reverse order. I would also do the final torque of
the spindle nut with the car on the ground.
Some rear bearing kits include a new seal. If yours does not, be sure to
order one. I can't imagine it being all that expensive (I would have to
guess less than $5.00 USD). The two assemblies that you mention in your
email, I have no clue what the difference is.
It could be something like the alternator where you either have a Denso or
Mitsubishi unit. When I bought my rebuilt alternator from the local
Kragen, they didn't even ask which unit I had. It just so happened that
the rebuilt unit and the one that was in my car were both made by Denso. :^)
I would ask at the time of ordering or call your local Honda dealership and
talk with the guys in the parts department. Get the Honda part number so
that if you decide to get it elsewhere, they will be able to cross it over
to the proper part.
HTH!
Robert K. Kuhn
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)
1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)
