I have many times done rear bearing on the street and racecars. The big rear nut requires a 32 mm x 6 point socket and tightens to the specified torque and a half drive torque wrench. There is no cotter key to keep it from loosening once it has been torqued but the nut has a large lip on the inside hole that you take a small punch or screwdriver and create a dent or "stake" that drops into a slot that is machined into the end of the spindle. This keeps the nut from backing off. When you remove your stock nut, you will need to unstake the factory dent so you can turn the nut. Honda suggests that you replace the nut each time but I typically use them 2 or 3 times before getting new ones. Not a big deal, just remove the dust cap over the rear wheel bearing and the nut and staking will become obvious.
I think the high price that was quoted included the hub and two new bearings but check your import auto parts houses for lower prices. I can't recall if I have replaced the bearings (there are 2 per side- inner and outer) alone or with a hub. Remember that the drum brake cars and rear disc brake cars use different rear hubs and bearings so order the right one. The differences are minor but they are there. Typically a bad rear wheel bearing is noticed by turning off the radio, and driving up to a reasonable speed then coasting with the engine idling so all noises are only coming from the rotating parts. Steer left and right in a steady S pattern and listen. The noise or rumbling will be worse when you load that wheel the most (left rear on right turns, right rear on left turns). As you S along, the noise should go on and off as you load the bad bearing. Also you can feel a loose bearing whn stopped by grabbing either side of the tire and rocking it inward and outward. Any appreciable movement or noise is excess bearing motion. Lee ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert K. Kuhn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "George Freeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "The Rex list" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2002 4:02 PM Subject: Re: CRX: Rear bearings! > On 01:40 PM 09/04/02 -0400, George Freeman said... > > >Finally, > > > >I have the cause of the road noise. First I thought it was the tires, but > >when the car was on the lift, we found out I was wrong :0 -> the rear > >bearings have had it. Around 55 mph the roar is so loud from the rear I > >can't hold a conversation on the cell phone (I normally don't use the phone > >in the car unless I have to). > > > >The parts listings at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com show the following two > >parts: > > > >BEARING ASSY., HUB UNIT (FUJIKOSHI) $97.92 > >BEARING ASSY., RR. HUB UNIT $97.92 > > > >Does the second part only replace the Right Rear (RR) or does it matter? > > > >Also, the Helms has a note: "after tightening the spindle nut, use a drift > >punch to stake the spindle nut shoulder onto the spindle" What the **** > >does this mean? Anyone done the rear bearings? TIA! > > > > > > > >George > >'89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 123k miles > >"Seats, Suspension, Engine, MSD, next=dyno" > > > I've only done a 1988 Honda Civic rear-bearing and I don't recall having to > use a drift punch. But what it sounds like to me is that they want you to > use one after you've torqued the spindle down (I think it's 130 ft.lbs. or > somewhere in that area) and then follow it up with the drift punch. > > On some of my past non-Honda cars, I had to do that in order to get the > cotter pin through the hole because the spindle nut almost always covered > it. I don't know if the CRX uses a cotter pin or not. On the Civic I did, > there was none that I recall. > > In case you (or anyone) is wondering what a drift punch is: > > http://www.toolcloseouts.com/default.asp?CATEGORY_ID=15&PRODUCT_ID=1901 > > What you also want to do is to try and break the spindle nut free while the > car is still on the ground. If you try to do it while on the jack stands, > you run the risk of knocking the car off the stands. > > Otherwise it's a pretty straight forward job - > > 1. Loosen the spindle nut while the car is still on the ground. > 2. Jack the car up and place it on a set of stands. > 3. Remove the wheels followed by the spindle nut. > 4. Release the parking brake. > 5. Remove the brake drum followed by the hub unit. > > Installation is in the reverse order. I would also do the final torque of > the spindle nut with the car on the ground. > > Some rear bearing kits include a new seal. If yours does not, be sure to > order one. I can't imagine it being all that expensive (I would have to > guess less than $5.00 USD). The two assemblies that you mention in your > email, I have no clue what the difference is. > > It could be something like the alternator where you either have a Denso or > Mitsubishi unit. When I bought my rebuilt alternator from the local > Kragen, they didn't even ask which unit I had. It just so happened that > the rebuilt unit and the one that was in my car were both made by Denso. :^) > > I would ask at the time of ordering or call your local Honda dealership and > talk with the guys in the parts department. Get the Honda part number so > that if you decide to get it elsewhere, they will be able to cross it over > to the proper part. > > HTH! > > > Robert K. Kuhn > CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal) > > 1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy) > ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla) >
