On 04:45 AM 10/16/02 -0700, Willy said...

>What do you think would cause a car (mine obviously) to not want to
>start when it's cold**, but once warmed up, it starts fine.

Define "cold" ~ 50F, 40F, ???

Could be a weak battery.  Check the grounds (battery and engine) and make 
sure they are making good contact (both ends).

>**turn the key, let the fuel pump prime (audible), and the check engine
>light turn off.  Crank the car, and until you give it a bit of gas, the
>idle is almost nonexistant.  Once you give it a little gas, the idle
>jumps up to where it's supposed to be for a cold engine, and it's fine.

Check the valve clearance and make sure they are within spec.  They may be 
too tight.

>Fast Idle Control Valve is new also.
>I ALWAYS run 93 octane, and once a month it get's injector cleaner

Wow!  You clean the injector's every month?!?   That seems a bit excessive 
to me.  Actually, when you say "clean" do you mean you dump some fuel 
injector cleaner in the tank or are you actually taking each injector out 
and having them physically cleaned?

>The car runs perfectly once it has started.  No misses, hesitations,
>backfires...nothing.  Just when it's cold starting.

When was the last time the fuel filter was replaced?  Have you checked the 
fuel PSI?

>I am burning a little oil, but already know that I need to plan a ring
>job soon.  But I don't think that this is the issue at all, the car
>still pulls really strong.  Unless I'm getting enough oil passing into
>the cylinder that it's having a hard time burning off that initial cold
>fire.
>
>
>Anyway, if anyone knows, or has seen this before, that would be great!
>
>
>
>=====
>Willy
>89 CRX Si/LS B18B 16X7 Enkie CDR9's, Tenzo CAI, custom adj. cam gears, 
>Koni Reds, BrandX coilovers/Neuspeed springs, Erebuni body kit (in the 
>process of being installed.)
>2 1/4" exhaust, no cat, Hooker Header Aerochamber, glasspack, Hooker 
>Header resonated tips, NGK plugs, wires, and distributor upgrades, Tenzo 
>short throw shifter.  Clear corners, custom grill inserts


Someone had mentioned carbon build up on the backside of the valves.  I had 
this happen on a VW GTi I use to own.  The shoppe gave me this stuff to 
dump in the fuel tank to help clean it up.  It was made by "ChemTool" or 
something like that.  It had Techron and some other chemicals in it that 
were of higher concentrate than the stuff you get off the shelf at the 
local WalMart and Pep Boy's.

Anyway, what the carbon build up did was cause the engine in my GTi to 
stumble and miss.  Most times it would cause really hard idling (sometimes 
not at all until it warmed up) and you could smell the gas like it was 
running really rich.

On another car we use to own, a 1981 Audi 4000, we had a problem with the 
electronic fuel management system (EFMS).  Whenever the outside temp had 
dropped below 40F (which isn't all that often out here in Southern Cali; 
but where we were living at that time, it was not uncommon for the outside 
temp to drop below 40F during the winter), the EFMS would not function.  If 
I heated it up to 50F, it would function again (might be the reason why it 
was located in the engine compartment).

I had similar symptoms as you did ~ fuel pump would kick on but would not 
start up until it got *warm*.  How that relates to the Honda, it may be the 
main relay or it could be the ECU.  Have you tried resetting the ECU just 
for kicks?

If you ever figure it out, let us know....

BOL!

BTW, I believe I may know what brand your coil over kit is.  I'll email you 
off the list in the next day or so.


Robert K. Kuhn
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)

1990 Honda CRXsi (http://drive.to/jiggy)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)

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