CRX: RE: Won't start, think it's the EACV

[George Freeman]

Title: Message

Robert,     On page 23-56 in the Helms book, it describes checking timing by warming engine up, cutting off motor, putting a jumper wire across the connector with the yellow cap (remove cap), then starting engine and setting timing.  Also, double-check the screw holding down the rotor in the distributor- if it's at all loose, that will slip up the timing adjustments.    Your symptoms definitely sound electrical- today I just replaced the ground cable from the battery to the body/engine on the wife's Nissan Quest and it was an absolute mess in corrosion.  Good news was I found a 36" replacement cable at Discount Auto that was 1-gauge! (like �-inch thick).  That's serious cable- but made a big difference gaining back horsepower as well did the home-brew cold air intake I made from 3" duct elbows (easy pass through in the fender wells on Quests/Villagers).    Honda uses I believe 10-gauge on the stock battery ground cable- thinner than a pencil and notorious for getting brittle (it'll crumble in your hand).  I replaced the ground cable with 4-gauge and replaced the positive lines going from the battery to the first fuse box (passenger side) with 8-gauge oxygen-free copper wire.  Take extra time to clean all connection points with Brasso & contact cleaner.  The result will be a big difference in idle, throttle response, horsepower, etc.   Okay, one last tip- when's the last time you replaced the idle screw o-ring (located at the top left on the intake manifold)?     George '89 DX-Hybrid-D16Z6, 126k miles "Seats, Suspension, Engine, MSD, next=dyno"   -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Robert K. Kuhn Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 7:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: CRX: Won't start, think it's the EACV Symptoms:   After the engine has warmed up to temp, idle is a bit rough but it doesn't die nor does the RPM dance up and down dramatically.  Sometimes after shutting down the engine and then restarting it will cause really rough idle but if I put my foot on the throttle and hold it at around 1500 to 2000 RPM, it will "clear" itself - sort of like carbon build up like conditions or a badly pitted (burnt) cap and/or rotor.  Once it smooths out, everything OK.   Sumary:   I figured it was time to do a tune which included new plugs to go along with the cap and rotor.  So I purchased said items from the dealer on Friday and began my tune up today.  Everything went OK and it wasn't long before I was out road testing Jiggy.   Pulled into the driveway and shut the engine down, let it sit for about 5 minutes, and they tried to restart the engine.  The engine did start smooth but if I let it sit for about 3 or 4 minutes, I could hear a slight miss but I could bring the RPM up to around 2000 or so and hold it and not hear any missing.  If I let it sit at idle even further, the RPM begins to drop and I can hear that it's not smooth.   What has been done thus far:   I've reset the ECU which didn't seem to help (prior to resetting, I checked for any error codes - none).  I pulled the cap and checked for any signs of burning/pitting.  None.  Also checked the wires on both the Igniter and Ignition Module.  Checked all the vacuum hoses around the throttle body and intake manifold.  Made sure they were snuggly on and that there was no damage. I did notice that the RPM at idle was not within spec as per the Helm so I decided to start there.  According to the Helm, it states to disconnect the EACV, then start the engine and adjust the RPM (with the aid of an external tach).   When I do disconnect the EACV, the engine won't start.  And the ECU throws an error 14 (EACV).   "Hm", thinks I.   So I go to check the resistance as per the Helm and I learn that it's pretty much impossible to check coming from the top with it still attached to the intake as the two connectors point straight down.  And I didn't have another 2P plug that would fit.  So... I loosened one of the bolts and removed one and was able to swing it to where I could see the pins (barely) and take a reading.   It measured at 12 Ohms (within spec as per the Helm).   I then did the next test/check and that was to see if either (or both) pins were shorted to ground (i.e. the body of the EACV).  Nope..  Phooey!   Bolted it back to the intake and now I can't even get Jiggy to start.  ECU throws an error code of 14.   Next I check to make sure there is voltage at the 2P and there is.  Then I follow it up by resetting the ECU again.   Still won't start.  But this is the part that really baffles me... with the EACV connected, not only with the engine not start, it doesn't even turn over!  It's like the entire electrical goes dead.  And I have to pull the battery cable in order to "reset" the car.  If it's not connected, the engine turns but never starts (and the ECU throws a 14 error code).   "WTH?!?", says I.   Now the Helm states that the problem could also be the ECU (and I don't believe at this point that it is).   I believe someone said that the EAVC is around $100 (USD) from the dealer (and about $2.00 for the seal).   ANYONE have ANY suggestions or ideas?!?   TIA!   Robert K. Kuhn CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)   1990 Honda CRXsi (http://www.hooligan.cc) ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)