On 06:16 PM 12/01/02 -0800, Jason Ustica said...

> When I do disconnect the EACV, the engine won't start.  And the ECU
> throws an error 14 (EACV).

The error is to be expected, when the ECU doesnt see the EACV it will
throw the code. Nothing odd in that, but the EACV code shouldnt effect
the starting of the engine, just the idle.

I was happy to see that the ECU did in fact detect a problem with the EACV after I had unplugged it.  But was stymied when it would not idle.  If I worked the throttle, I could keep the engine running, but it would not idle.

 Did you try starting the
engine after unbolting the EACV compltely, leaving the port exposed?

No.

I'd think the only thing that would happen would be an extremely high
idle.

I thought about it but did not try it.

 Leave the 2P connected to the EACV while you do it even, just
unbolt it from the manifold. You'll be able to watch it actuate the
valve inside as well.

Make sure the passageway for the intake air to the EACV isnt blocked by
something.

Also make sure your EACV isn't clogged full of crud, use a solvent (I
think I used throttle body cleaner) to clean it.

The metal screen did have some black soot on it, but it wasn't clogged.

> Still won't start.  But this is the part that really baffles me...
> with the EACV connected, not only with the engine not start, it
> doesn't even turn over!  It's like the entire electrical goes dead.

You need to also do the standard check of grounds, this almost sounds
like one of those ground wire gremlins.

I did that.  I even went as far as to add an additional set of grounds (battery and engine).

 
> I believe someone said that the EAVC is around $100 (USD) from the
> dealer (and about $2.00 for the seal).

I have two spare EACVs here, let me know if you want one to try before
getting raped by the Dealer parts people. If you get it and it works,
we can work something out.


I make take you up on that offer.

Another possibility that my problem may be, as I sit here thinking about it further, is that I may have a head gasket leak.  I did not see any oil in the coolant and vice versa but, I have noticed that I have been slowly losing small amounts of coolant since replacing the radiator back in August  (not leaving any coolant puddles and I have not seen any obvious leaks)

The reason I suspect that I may have a head gasket going (or gone) bad is because I noticed that when it idled rough, I could smell coolant in the air but could not determine where it was coming from exactly.  As it idled roughly, I was getting a lot of water condensation from the exhaust as well as white smoke which quickly vaporized (not your typical oil smoke screen that lingers).  It's never really done that before.  I attributed it to the idle and/or air mixture being out of whack.

Anyway, I'm thinking that I may have a head gasket leak which could have leaked enough coolant into the piston to where it would not allow me to kick the engine over.  The reconnecting of the EACV just might have been a coincidence ~ the starter may be pulling a huge load trying to start the engine and can't.

Later tonight, I'm going to re-pull the plugs and see if I seen any signs of coolant.  Is there any other way that I can check aside from pulling the cylinder head?

Robert K. Kuhn
CRX Owners Group President (http://www.crx.org/southcal)

1990 Honda CRXsi (http://www.hooligan.cc)
ICQ # 3714283 (nickname: godzilla)

Alpine Drive (San Diego County) - December, 2002
http://www.crx.org/southcal/events.html

Or...

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=339727

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