I'm more of a lurker on this list but I thought I'd mention that there  
are some applications that are sort of an in-between (I mean between  
hand writing everything and letting the program do it all for you).  
Coda, for example, has a nice css editor built in. It lets you get CSS  
done with clicks but it also writes very clean CSS code so you can see  
exactly what's being changed. Coda is more of a GUI editor for  
programmers... where dreamweaver is more of a GUI editor for  
designers, I guess.

Also there is CSSEdit, which let's you do the same thing as Coda's CSS  
editor, with the exception being that it's ONLY for CSS editing, where  
as Coda is multi purpose.

Both of the above are mac applications, sorry if that makes this a  
useless reply ;) Just thought I'd mention that there are tools that  
can help you get CSS written without taking over the job for you  
completely. My CSS skills have greatly improved by trying things out  
with a CSS editor and then studying the code that the editor generates.

Good luck!

--Mike H
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