-Caveat Lector-

>From TheNewStatesman
http://www.newstatesman.co.uk/199910040014.htm


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No politics, please, we'll stick to rugby

Jane Jakeman
Monday 4th October 1999

Blair's bastardised socialism fails to excite the people of Cardiff, finds Jane
Jakeman
As I leave the station into the damp air and screaming seagulls of my normally
unexcitable home town of Cardiff, the first thing that meets my eyes is a huge
red dragon lying on its back on a nearby rooftop. The dragon is clutching a
rugby ball between its front paws, having clearly performed a classic save.
The city has totally given itself up to the rugby-fest of the World Cup and
rugby mania has caused a wild sprouting of nationalism. The red-dragon emblem
has been pressed into service everywhere, not only clutching balls or wearing T-
shirts inextricably subsumed into the iconography of a sporting city, but also
involved in all its financial enterprises. I see a florist's van, speeding past
through the muddy puddles of the frantic last-minute construction going on
around the stadium, with a dragon clutching a bouquet in the logo on its side.
Restaurants are advertised with rows of small dragons wearing chef's hats.
Rugby has completely eliminated politics as a matter of national interest. It
is in the crucible of the new stadium that Wales will be tested in the fire and
recreated as a nation - not in the Welsh Assembly, which is vaguely perceived
as a talking-shop for the boyos. Anyone will tell you where the rugby ground
is, whereas no one knows the whereabouts of the assembly, and even the tourist
office staff had to check when asked for directions. (It is in a different part
of the city, in the Cardiff Bay development area, and will be housed in a new
building designed by the Richard Rogers Partnership, with a transparent roof to
symbolise the open nature of its democratic proceedings - an announcement that
provoked many hollow laughs in the city that didn't vote for it.)
Paradoxically, the assembly has resulted in the depoliticisation of popular
culture. South Wales was a society with a high political conscience, where
policies and strategies were widely discussed, even though the country was
virtually a one-party state. Nearly 20 years of Conservative treatment of Wales
as a hostile colony did not diminish this. But Blairism has. With new Labour,
the passion has gone out of politics for the Welsh: the socialism that fired
their blood is seen as defeated from within. Welsh socialism was created by the
miners' unions with a vision of a mutually supportive society. This vision
remained intact, even after Thatcher's destruction of the mines in the 1980s.
But the Cardiffians realise that, with Blair, this version has been effectively
castrated into a milk-and-water alliance with capitalism that is unlikely to
deliver social benefits.
This may explain why, when it came to voting for the assembly, the people of
Cardiff dragged their feet, and the Welsh as a whole only voted it in by a
narrow margin. Little wonder, then, that new Labour is viewed as an alien
ideology imposed from Westminster. There may still be an official Wales that is
bullish about its national politics, but in the real Wales, in the pubs, clubs
and front rooms, no one discusses Alun Michael or beef-on-the-bone: the talk is
all of the forthcoming game with Western Samoa. It is as if, in turning its
back on the assembly as a national symbol, Wales is all the more eager to
embrace its rugby team.
Local politicians, sensitive to the national mood, fall over one other in
claims to be promoting sport. Even the Welsh nats, traditionally occupied with
more intellectual squabbles about Celticism, have taken to posting discussions
of tactics on their internet site, and Alun Michael has announced that a
funding review will begin shortly. A Cardiff member of the assembly, Jenny
Randerson, has demanded a higher share of financial support for sport, which at
present gets 5 per cent funding as against 6.5 per cent for heritage.
"The greatest rugby show on earth", as the tourist literature bills it, is set
to transform Cardiff. Giant electronic street signs advertising local
businesses have been keeping a countdown check on the number of days to go
before the World Cup starts. The price of accommodation is shooting up. There
is a new five-star hotel, the St David's, overlooking the bay area. The normal
charge for a double room starts at �98; after the start of the World Cup on 1
October it will be �110-�160 and for the cup final at the beginning of November
it will rise to a whacking �200. All the way down to the B&Bs this pricing is
reflected: the Arosa Guest House in Pontcanna will increase its modest �36 per
night to �50 "for the rugby".
In the market, pennants bearing the red scaly beasts flutter above the meat on
the butchers' stalls with bizarre effect, vaguely suggestive of Grendel's lair.
In the tiny bar of one pub near the ground, I count six huge television screens
suspended from the ceiling for the benefit of those who couldn't get or can't
afford tickets - official prices range from �4-�150.
The stadium will be overflowing with fans. Down in the bay area, meanwhile, a
handful of politicos will trickle into the assembly. At least by then the
tourist office may have learnt where it is.


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