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Attitudes Altered In Iraq as Hussein Solidifies Standing

By Rajiv Chandrasekaran

Washington Post Foreign Service
Sunday, September 22, 2002; Page A01

KARBALA, Iraq -- Heroic images of Saddam Hussein are the most common feature of Iraq's
desolate landscape. In some, he is wearing a revolutionary's black beret. In others, 
he is
festooned in the traditional Arab headdress. And in the most popular new style, he is
sporting a fedora and firing a rifle into the air.

But here in Karbala, a dusty city swarming with Muslim pilgrims, the imposing wooden
billboard hanging over the market depicts a very different Hussein. His face is bowed. 
His
hands are upturned. He is praying.

For almost two weeks in March 1991, Karbala was the epicenter of a bloody insurrection
that became a bigger threat to Hussein's government than the Persian Gulf War that had
just ended. Thousands of Shiite Muslim rebels commandeered two gold-domed mosques
and lynched scores of government loyalists before the army retook the city.

To prevent such a rebellion from occurring again, Hussein's government cracked down,
allegedly killing several Shiite clerics, abducting dozens of others and putting down 
protests
with massive force, according to human rights groups. But the government also has 
sought
to pacify the Shiites by repairing damaged mosques, putting more gold tiles on them and
trying to convince people here that Hussein respects them.

His handling of the Shiite crisis illustrates the extraordinary measures he has taken 
since
the Gulf War to shore up public support. Although Iraq's army and economy are 
significantly
weaker than they were a decade ago, Hussein's efforts to coerce a variety of important
constituencies, from Muslim fundamentalists to computer-savvy youths, have left him the
undisputed leader of this nation of 23 million people.

A nearly two-week visit to Iraq, including trips to two southern cities regarded as 
potential
hotbeds of anti-government activity, suggests that Hussein's strategy to neutralize
opposition has been at least modestly successful. Western-oriented college students, 
black-
turbaned Shiite clerics and soldiers who were forced to retreat from Kuwait said in 
often
lengthy interviews that their allegiances to Hussein are firm, challenging assumptions 
by
some of his opponents that Iraqis would quickly turn against him in the event of a 
military
confrontation with the United States.

"Before, people used to hang pictures of him in the shops and offices because they 
worried
they would get punished if they didn't," a businessman in Baghdad said as he gazed at a
poster of the president on the wall behind his desk. "Now there are more people who are
displaying pictures of him because they admire him."

Accurately gauging Hussein's support across the country is difficult, if not 
impossible.
Criticizing the president is illegal and can result in a trip to jail. Foreign 
journalists usually
cannot interview people without the presence of an official from the Information 
Ministry.
And it is forbidden to travel from Baghdad to a crescent of autonomous Kurdish areas 
in the
north, where there is little love for Hussein.

Even so, conversations with several Iraqis -- without a government employee present --
suggested that their attitudes toward the president have been shaped not so much by an
official insistence that Hussein be adored but by moves he has made over the past 
decade
to win public favor.

He has promoted the growth of Islamic fundamentalism, using it as a way to stoke anti-
American sentiments and promote himself as the country's religious leader. He has
managed to deflect criticism of domestic ills by blaming the U.N. economic sanctions
imposed on Iraq after it invaded Kuwait in 1990. He has sought to instill a sense of 
pride
among Iraqis in his defiance of the United States and its allies. And he has decided 
to dole
out modest new freedoms, including Internet access and the ability to watch foreign 
music
videos, as a way of stemming the people's restlessness with other restrictions on their
activities.

"A decade ago, I would have welcomed the Americans," said a Shiite who has a low-level
job in a government ministry. "But not now."

Hussein, the government employee said, "was crazy to invade Kuwait." But now, he said, 
he
is happy the president is standing up for Iraq's interests in the face of "exaggerated
American claims about weapons of mass destruction" and "America's attempt to control 
our
oil."

"I'm not the only one who feels this way," he said. "Everyone I know has a better 
opinion of
him."

To the Iraqi government, the prospect of a Shiite rebellion has long been as dire a 
concern
as an American invasion.

Shiites, who are concentrated largely in southern Iraq, comprise about 55 percent of 
the
country's population, but they wield comparatively little political clout. Most of the 
country's
powerful officials, including Hussein, are Sunni Muslims, even though they make up 
only a
quarter of all Iraqis.

Ethnic Kurds, who account for most of the rest of Iraq's population, have succeeded 
after
years of fighting in carving out an autonomous swath of territory in northern Iraq. 
But the
loss of land has not posed a strategic threat to Baghdad. If discontented Shiites tried
something similar, however, Hussein's regime would be squeezed between two
insurgencies, deprived of the country's most lucrative oil fields and cut off from 
access to
the Persian Gulf.

With those risks in mind, the government set out after the 1991 insurrection to 
transform its
relationship with the Shiites, using new threats and new enticements.

When the fighting ceased, opposition leaders said Shiite clerics with anti-government
leanings began to wind up missing or dead. First to be secreted away, according to 
rights
organizations, were 105 religious scholars and their relatives. In 1999, Ayatollah
Mohammed Sadeq Al-Sadr, a top Shiite leader who had called on the government to
release Shiite prisoners, was assassinated. And last summer, another leading Shiite
scholar, Ayatollah Hussein Bahr Al-Aloom, was found dead 10 days after refusing to
endorse the appointment of Hussein's son Qusay to the Baath party's regional command,
according to a U.N. report.

Shiite leaders based outside Iraq contend that several senior clerics have been 
prevented
from meeting with visitors, and others have been told to publicly pledge fealty to the
government. The Iraqi government is engaged in "continued systematic suppression of
religious activity among the Shiite community," Max van der Stoel, a former U.N. human
rights rapporteur for Iraq, said in a statement to the U.N. Human Rights Commission.

Iraqi officials insist the government is not responsible for the deaths of the 
clerics. They
blame tribal rivalries, natural causes and Shiite insurgents from Iran.

Until recently, officials sought to ward off any new groups of insurgents by reminding
Shiites about the violence that occurred in the two mosques here, which contain 
shrines to
two of the prophet Muhammad's grandsons, Hussein and Abbas, and are considered among
the holiest places for Shiites. In a room near the entrance to the Abbas mosque, nooses
made from electrical cable used to dangle from the ceiling and pictures of the 
shattered
structure hung on the walls.

But they have been removed. The government's message of the moment is harmony
between Shiites and Sunnis.

In a sign of reconciliation, Hussein has paid several visits to the shrines in this 
crowded city
60 miles southwest of Baghdad. Pictures of him are placed prominently at the entrances.
Officials say that Hussein the president is related to Hussein the enshrined Shiite.

The government has even stopped blaming local Shiites for the violence. The official 
line
now is that the trouble was caused by Iranian infiltrators.

"While the Iraqi army was paying all its attention to the major battle with the 
Americans,
the Iranians took advantage of the situation," said Sayed Mehdi Al-Ghorabi, the
government- appointed administrator of the Abbas mosque.

Reasoning that personal prosperity might improve attitudes toward the government,
officials said they are planning to develop the city into a major religious tourist 
destination
for Shiites, with hundreds of small new hotels and restaurants. Authorities already 
have
constructed a palm- lined plaza to connect the two shrines.

In the bustling market, filled with stalls hawking plastic trinkets and fragrant 
sweets, several
longtime residents were reluctant to talk about the rebellion with a foreign 
journalist,
insisting they were out of town at the time. But they said, in the presence of a 
government
employee, that people here now firmly back Hussein.

"The people here love the president," proclaimed Atalla Habib, an elderly man whose 
small
shop is replete with wooden prayer beads and green prayer mats. "We know he loves
Shiite people."

Diplomats and analysts said they are unsure how deep that sentiment runs, but they said
Hussein's Shiite strategy probably has reduced chances of another insurrection.

"Saddam has very skillfully used the carrot and the stick with them," a diplomat in 
Baghdad
said. "It doesn't appear that they are eager for another fight."

These days, the government appears so confident of the security situation that it 
allows
thousands of Iranian Shiite pilgrims to travel here. As the sun began to set on a 
recent
evening, the streets filled with black-robed women and men in full-length tunics 
jostling
their way into the shrines for the day's final prayers. Despite the crowds, uniformed 
security
forces were not on the streets save for a few white-suited traffic policemen.

"In any community there are some outlaws," said Abdel Sahib Naser Nasrulla, the
administrator of the Hussein shrine. "But I assure you there are now very few here."

Hussein's efforts to quash dissent by promoting religion also extends well into the 
Sunni
heartland. As the ululating call to prayer echoes across Baghdad on Friday afternoons,
hundreds of families drive up to a mosque where a 605-page, glass-encased copy of the
Koran has been penned with what officials say is 50 pints of the president's blood.

It is the Mother of All Battles Mosque, a gift from Saddam Hussein to the people of 
Iraq that
appears to be as much about self-preservation as self-promotion.

Hussein never used to be regarded as particularly religious. His Baath party is 
officially
secular. And Baghdad was known in the Arab world for its comparatively free-wheeling
nightlife and open sales of alcohol.

All that changed in the mid-1990s as sanctions began to take their toll on the Iraqi
population. With life becoming more difficult, more people began turning to religion.
Mosque attendance boomed, as did praying five times a day. In Baghdad, where women
once wore the latest Parisian fashions, head scarves and even full-length veils became 
de
rigueur.

Such trends have been viewed with alarm by political leaders in other Arab nations. 
But in
Iraq, Hussein has sought to exploit it. He has become perhaps the country's single 
biggest
proponent of religion.

During the Gulf War, he famously added the words "Allahu Akbar," or God is great, to 
the
red, white and black Iraqi flag, reportedly in his own handwriting. Since then, he has
instituted a "faith campaign" intended to Islamicize Iraq. The public consumption of 
liquor
has been banned. Schoolchildren must now finish studying the Koran before graduating
from high school. He has set up Saddam University for Islamic Studies to churn out new
clerics. And he has ordered the construction of dozens of mosques, including one, to be
called the Saddam Hussein Mosque, that is intended to be the largest in the world.

Getting people to the mosque has clear political benefits for Hussein. Sermons are 
often
imbued with fiery anti-American and anti-Israeli rhetoric as well as the obligatory 
messages
of support for the president.

"Our belief in Islam will make us stronger for our fight against America," said Abdel 
Ameer,
36, a board member of a large Shiite mosque in the southern port city of Basra.

Several clerics have recently cast Iraq's dispute with the United States as a jihad, 
or holy
war, in which all able-bodied men must fight. "If there's a war, Saddam is not going 
to say
'Fight for me' this time. He's going to say 'You must fight for Allah,' " a Western 
diplomat
said. "It will be a much more powerful message."

For the time being, though, perhaps the most popular new sound in Baghdad doesn't
emanate from minarets. It comes from hand-held radios and car stereos tuned to a U.S.
government- run station called Radio Sawa.

Beamed into Iraq from a transmitter in Kuwait, Sawa is an attempt by the State 
Department
to present a flattering image of America to Arab youth by broadcasting a mixture of 
Arabic
and Western pop songs interspersed with short, U.S.-centric news reports.

The Iraqi government has not jammed Sawa. It's available all day in southern cities. In
Baghdad, it's heard only in the evenings, when AM signals travel farther. "We know the
news is American propaganda, but we love the music," said a merchant named Sayed who
was listening to Sawa on a recent evening.

Growing increasingly confident of public support of the government's view of the world,
officials have recently begun allowing people to indulge in a few liberties long out 
of reach.

Iraqis can now access the Internet, either from home if they are prosperous enough to 
own
a computer or from several government-run Internet centers. Web-based e-mail programs
such as Hotmail are blocked, as are sexually explicit sites, but international news 
sites are
accessible.

Although erecting a satellite dish on one's roof to watch CNN is illegal, the 
government has
set up a satellite relay system in Baghdad that allows residents to see 14 television
channels from outside Iraq with a regular antenna. There's no world news, but there are
music videos and sports programs.

Sayed said he finds it hard to believe the statements of U.S. officials broadcast on 
Radio
Sawa saying that a new government would be better for Iraq. "If America says it cares 
for
us so much, why did they impose sanctions on us?" he said.

That's a question Ali Chamel said he asks every day. His 13-year-old son, Mohammed 
Ali, is
suffering from leukemia. His doctors in Basra say they would have a good chance of 
saving
him if they could administer a cocktail of five drugs. But the hospital only has three 
of the
five. The doctors said the delivery of the other two has been held up by a U.N. 
sanctions
committee that determines whether imports might have potential weapons-making uses.

Chamel can barely contain his rage. "Why are the Americans doing this to my son?" he
growled. "How can Iraq make a weapon with medicine?"

Under a U.N. Security Council resolution, the sanctions cannot be lifted until 
inspectors
certify that Iraq does not possess nuclear, chemical and biological weapons. Western
governments have accused Iraq of prolonging the sanctions by hindering the inspectors,
resulting in their departure from the country in 1998. But men like Chamel don't blame
Hussein for the continuing embargo, they blame the United States.

"This is not the president's fault," Chamel said. "He's defending Iraq."

Hussein's defiance plays well among Iraqis. Baghdad residents love to mention that 
after a
British plane bombed the capital's version of the Space Needle, he ordered it rebuilt 
taller
than the Tower of London. The newest addition to the city's collection of monuments is 
a
hulking granite depiction of the Arabic word for "No."

"He stands up to the world," Sayed said with a grin. "We admire him for that."

� 2002 The Washington Post Company

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