Can I suggest two ways to minimise or avoid artifacts from shadow/highlights module.
1. Switch between soften with Gaussian or soften with bilateral and compare the difference 2. Use two or more instances of shadows/highlights module with smaller adjustments rather than a single use of shadow/highlights with a large adjustment. Both of these methods have helped me avoid the dread halo effects. Dr Terry Pinfold Cytometry & Histology Lab Manager Lecturer in Flow Cytometry University of Tasmania 17 Liverpool St, Hobart, 7000 Ph 6226 4846 or 0408 699053 ________________________________ From: David Vincent-Jones <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, 28 July 2020 5:24 AM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [darktable-user] Base curve I do agree that I still have a need for some tonal adjustment after using filmic (which is now my default path). The lack of highlight detail/contrast ... most often in the sky or snow texture .... is where I have the greatest difficulty. I still resort to using the highlight-shadows module despite severe artifact problems. For my taste, I also find that images need added saturation after filmic. I do find that adding the middle-tone-saturation (under the 'look' tab) is very helpful and solves most problems .... generally I stay away from velvia. David On 2020-07-27 10:38 a.m., Jason Polak wrote: This is just a comment on the filmic module. I like it actually over the base curve but I still find the need to adjust certain tones, emphasizing them with the tone curve. I don't think that will change. The filmic adjustments are often too coarse. Also, for some reason, compared to using darktable 2.4 a long time ago with base curve/tone curve, after using filmic in darktable 3 my images seem to be quite desaturated. I usually activate velvia and tweak colours either using saturation or color zones to generate something that I would consider more accurate. I probbaly am not using the most efficient workflow, but actually I am quite fast at darktable having used it for 5 years as by first Raw developer, but I was just wondering if other people are using a different workflow when it comes to improving saturation after using filmic. Jason On 27/7/20 12:51 pm, David Vincent-Jones wrote: After you have read the replies to your initial question, I am sure that you must be quite confused. Let me try to more correctly find an answer that may make sense. There are two possible development 'routes' in darktable. 1.) uses the 'base curve'; 2.) uses the 'filmic-rgb' module. If you use the base-curve approach .. this module designed to approximate a camera jpg and is not normally modified by the uses. If you wish to modify the effects of the base-curve then you should be using the tone-curve to make corrections as needed. Patrick has been advocating that you use the filmic-rgb approach (a more recent darktable development); in which case the base-curve should be switched off totally and then all/most of the adjustment will be done within filmic-rgb. I would strongly recommend that you familiarize these processes through the excellent manual or the numerous videos that are available on-line. David On 2020-07-27 8:18 a.m., Patrick Shanahan wrote: * Mikael Ståldal <[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]> [07-27-20 10:50]: I use Darktable 3.0.2 (the latest version as far as I know). I have read about the base curve module in the user manual. I understand the mechanics about changing the curve, but the whole concept is very abstract to me. On 2020-07-27 16:26, Patrick Shanahan wrote: * Mikael Ståldal <[email protected]><mailto:[email protected]> [07-27-20 10:16]: I have enabled the base curve with preset "sony alpha like" (since I have Sony cameras), and that is better than without. But I have a hard time understanding how to manually edit the base curve in a useful way. I can edit it, and I see how the image changes, but it feels quite random to me. I don't know what to do to get the result I want. Most of the presets are for specific camera makers, so it's hard to know which one to chose. Does it even make sense to use a preset for another camera than the one taking the photo? On 2020-07-26 00:55, Terry Pinfold wrote: ·A base curve is applied automatically but if you look in the preset options you may find another you prefer. You can also create your own for future use. you don't say what version dt you employe but a better approach would be to enable filmic and follow: https://discuss.pixls.us/t/darktable-3-0-for-dummies-in-3-modules/15849<https://discuss.pixls.us/t/darktable-3-0-for-dummies-in-3-modules/15849> as advised in this thread. about base curve: https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/modules.html<https://www.darktable.org/usermanual/en/modules.html> 3.4.1.4.Base curve fwiw, I have filmic enabled. aiui, base curve matched exactly to your camera/model is an effort to display a basically acceptable jpg image "resembling" but not matching your "basic" ooc image. imnsho, you would be better served employing filmic and disabling base curve. ____________________________________________________________________________ darktable user mailing list to unsubscribe send a mail to [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> ____________________________________________________________________________ darktable user mailing list to unsubscribe send a mail to [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> ____________________________________________________________________________ darktable user mailing list to unsubscribe send a mail to [email protected] University of Tasmania Electronic Communications Policy (December, 2014). 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