Thanks for all of you for your invaluable contribution to the journey I started with film scanning. Using your input I now finally settled with a minimum number of steps that gives me an acceptable start for a complete film roll using the exact same steps for each slide. So here is my approach:
1. turn off base curve 2. set white balance using a spot on the film base (unexposed stripe between slides) 3. use the global color picker to note the values for the white (well grey) stripe between two slides, convert them to hex rgb 4. negadoctor: enter the hex rgb calculated in step 3 with the color selector gui (not the color picker, because for some reason it gives me different results. Set scanner bias to -0.1dB for a somewhat lighter, more middle-balanced histogram 5. rgb curve: set black point to 25% and white point to 75% for more lively colors (see this <https://photos.app.goo.gl/MSWo3Ue5wiuGtUao6> for a visual explanation) 6. tone curve: apply "contrast - high (gamma 2.2)" preset 7. crop and rotate (i attached these as a dstyle below, i hope i did it right) I apply these setting to the whole film roll, so I get an impression about how well I managed to set aperture and exposition over the whole film roll. Please have a look on my last roll <https://photos.app.goo.gl/pfv8o4djW4tiB1ci7>, and share your thoughts on the above outlined process, and possibly on the work I did during shooting the roll. Nikon FE, C200. thanks: Miklos On Fri, Aug 14, 2020 at 1:43 PM <[email protected]> wrote: > Ah, sorry, you thought bit deeper. > The film will not act as a typical lens-mounted filter (like > softeners) as it is too close to the object plane. > But lets consider this: if your film layer would be opaque you'd see a > difference between having it on the illumination side or on the lens > side. You'd still see the image if on the lens side but with > diminished contrast and thus loss of resolution. OTOH you might well > place an opaque screen at any place on the illumination side without > loosing information (just overall brightness). > > Uwe > > > Quoting Miklós Müller <[email protected]>: > > > I don't quite get this. We are taking a picture of a fully backlit > > transparent object. My understanding is that all the film layers act as a > > filter for the light. So all layers will be equally involved regardless > > which one is in the front. > > > > Anyway I did some research: > > https://www.google.com/search?q=dslr+film+scanning+emulsion+up+or+down > > > > What I understood from people's comments is that for flatbed and > > filmscanners it does indeed make a difference, i.e. avoiding newton > rings, > > and possibly other benefits, but it seems so to me that with dslr film > > scanning most people agree that they see no noticeable benefit of having > > the emulsion side down. > > > > thanks: > > m > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2020 at 10:36 AM <[email protected]> wrote: > > > >> Hi, > >> > >> you want to take an image of the emulsion layer (which contains the > >> photographic information). You do want to have as little as possible > >> in between that layer and your lens, not even the film carrier. > >> Mirroring can be done in software easily, lost information can't be > >> regained. > >> > >> Uwe > >> > >> > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________ darktable user mailing list to unsubscribe send a mail to [email protected]
color negative.dtstyle
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