Dave, Thanks for the aluminum prices in your area.
I will be checking for local sources in and around Akron to match or better the prices you quoted. If all else fails, I will email you with an order or a request for info on a Cleveland supplier. Thanks for contributing to this thread. Philip On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 5:41 PM, dave walton <[email protected]> wrote: > FYI - my guy also has 6061 chunks - something like 4"x3"x1/2" (not sure > about the thickness) for ~$0.70/lb. They are leftover pieces in odd shapes > with funky edges. > The price varies with the quoted scrap price from the local recycler. That > price is ~2 months old. > > > On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 5:06 PM, a l <[email protected]> wrote: > >> This idea was starting to merit it's own thread given Rob, Philip, and >> Dave's contributions. So as not to derail Will's question/discussion I >> moved it over here. >> >> Casting aluminum can be done cheaply. I've cast random blobs using soup >> cans for crucibles, a wash tub filled with clay insulation, a leaf blower >> and lump charcoal. >> backyardmetalcasting.com has a wealth of information including designs. >> Propane and air work well, oil and forced air work well too but have a >> tendency to make smoke during startup and if they blow out. I have a set of >> needle drills I bought from hobby lobby for $15 so we could make our own >> propane burner. People have reported decent results using MIG gas tips for >> oil burners. >> Getting greensand shouldn't be too hard. We can buy petrobond stuff or >> make a few(10-15) pounds of wet sand while we test the waters. This will >> definitely need to be done out of doors. We will also need to put down >> -dry- sand around the furnace and pouring area. In the event of a spill hot >> aluminum can cause explosive spalling of concrete sending concrete >> fragments and molten aluminum in every direction, a bad thing(TM). >> >> As Dave pointed out clay and especially graphite crucibles require >> specific care if we want them to last. You need to bake out the moisture >> immediately before each use and ensure they cool slowly in the furnace.Not >> filling them during the initial melt stages allows the aluminum to shift >> and expand without stressing them. Lastly handle them with care to avoid >> breakage. >> >> The best kinds of aluminum to cast are extruded items like lawn chairs, >> car rims, window frames, sliding doors, etc. Beverage cans work well enough >> for art pieces and learning to cast but those allows are optimized for cold >> working and forming into cans. The lid and body are actually two different >> allows. Using Steel for crucibles and ingot forms is ok, but it's best kept >> in mind that a portion of the iron does dissolve into the aluminum slowly >> changing it's properties. As does sand casting except silicon instead of >> iron, so if the end use has tight mechanical tolerances it's best to use >> the least handled material possible. Chips are nice if that's all you can >> get but their high surface area means you get more dross in the melt even >> if you don't add them to an empty crucible. The bigger the starting >> material the less dross and losses to adsorption you'll get. >> >> I've got a few of the Gingery and Lindsay Books on aluminum casting I'll >> bring to tonight's meeting so you can look them over Philip. As a side >> note, why not just use steel plate machined to shape for your triggers? >> Should be something do able with a bandsaw and some creative dremeling. >> >> regards, >> Andrew L >> >> >> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 4:05 PM, dave walton <[email protected]>wrote: >> >>> We have a local source of mixed aluminum shavings (several alloys - >>> mostly 6061) coming from a CNC machine for ~$0.50/lb. They tend to still be >>> a bit damp from the spray jets. You have to dry them, then add to an >>> existing pool of molten aluminum. They will oxidize and turn to dust if you >>> try heating them on their own. >>> I can hook you up with our source, but I suspect you can find something >>> closer. >>> >>> >>> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Philip P. Patnode >>> <[email protected]>wrote: >>> >>>> Rob, >>>> >>>> A 10min search on The Google using the search term "aluminum casting" >>>> resulted in many videos showing how to do it easily and cheaply. >>>> >>>> One tutorial showed it could be done using two steel cans, a hair dryer >>>> set on "cold", and charcoal briquettes. >>>> >>>> No need to have a class - just look at the videos and try some >>>> experiments in your backyard. >>>> >>>> BTW, how much aluminum do you have in you horde? Any square or >>>> circular tubing? I might be interested in buying some of it from you. >>>> >>>> Philip >>>> >>>> >>>> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 1:17 PM, Robert Rybicki < >>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Using oil sounds neato! I for one would be very interested in >>>>> learning how to do this. Maybe we can have a class or something? I have >>>>> aluminum I have been hoarding away. >>>>> >>>>> Rob >>>>> >>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>> >>>>> On May 27, 2014, at 6:46 AM, dave walton <[email protected]> >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> We use regular old propane at Maker's Alliance. Works fine. >>>>> Any extra gets poured into muffin tins from Walmart for easy melting >>>>> next time. >>>>> We have used crucibles as a container for melting, but they break >>>>> after a few uses and if you don't watch the heat, they melt too. >>>>> Cast iron works okay - preferably old thick stuff. Not cheap Chinese >>>>> imports. >>>>> I've read about groups using waste oil and waste vegetable oil as a >>>>> fuel source. They recommend using a siphon nozzle: >>>>> http://www.amazon.com/Delavan-Siphon-Nozzle-30609-30609-9/dp/B00EO5IE3C >>>>> If you go that route you will need an adapter - Delavan 17147 or 17136 >>>>> , some plumbing, and an air source. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:03 AM, Devin Wolfe < >>>>> [email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> Not effectively. We would need a oxy-acetylene, MAP, or a Oxy-propane >>>>>> torch set up. Then we would need sand for mold making, and we would have >>>>>> to >>>>>> make some mold boxes. If your making small parts you can use MAP gas from >>>>>> the hardware store, but if the parts get bigger, or you want to make a >>>>>> lot >>>>>> of them, it is far more cost effective to buy big bottles of >>>>>> oxy-acetylene >>>>>> or oxy-propane. >>>>>> On May 27, 2014 8:44 AM, "Philip P. Patnode" <[email protected]> >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> Related, but off on a tangent here - >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Does SH have the equipment to make small aluminum castings, not >>>>>>> larger than say 4in x 4in x 4in ? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Discuss mailing list >> [email protected] >> https://synhak.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Discuss mailing list > [email protected] > https://synhak.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss >
_______________________________________________ Discuss mailing list [email protected] https://synhak.org/mailman/listinfo/discuss
