Hi Graeme.
Ah yes that topic again.
New to this list but bantered many times over the phone between many of us.
I did mine last annual at the 5 year mark and did the cables hose etc.
I also did an engine change at the same time (thanks Richard, who did the
hose in the under tank area. You always volunteer for the fiddly stuff I
hate).
Rob and co (GYT) did theirs the year before and I am pretty sure the exhaust
was off at the annual due to finding a crack in the muffler at the
inspection. Comments please Rob!!!.
Bordertown (GOE) did an engine change 10 months before the hoses were due
and chose not to change the hose at the time.
So comments please Geoff on what you did as you did comment it was a pain
doing that particular hose.
I am pretty sure John V (GVQ) had the engine out when he did that aircraft.
Comments John ?.
It is so much easier to do it when there is some major removal of bits
required for other maintenance.
In NHB the hose is not that close to the exhaust.
Note there is a bend in the copper directing it downward before the hose
heads back up again toward the baffle.
That comment is based on Memory only, but that is my recollection from the
last 2 times the engine has been out.
I must admit I considered extending the copper further around to make the
hose connection more accessible. It is imperial size as is the hose tail so
quality compression fittings for the task are readily available. But then I
figured there will be some other work to do back there in the next five
years so change the hose then.
A word of sound advice. When all the hoses are connected up remove the steel
flare fittings at the Carbs (close the fittings on the carb with tape or
whatever of course) and get someone either side to hold the hose end
fittings in a tin or whatever while you run the boost pump. Pays to block of
1 end at a time with a finger to direct full pump flow through each hose.
Don't be scared to waist 4-6$ worth of fuel. This will make sure there is no
tiny nasties left in the system. There is nothing worse than getting to the
end and finding the carbs flood when you run the boost pump.
Trust me, been there, done that. Blow the hoses out all you want before
assembly but Murphy's law will come into play.
If you get a tiny bit of foreign material in the needle and seat the carb
will flood and nothing will fix it reliably other than to remove the bowl
and clean the needle and seat. Left side aint to bad but the bottom left nut
on the right Carby mounting flange is a BIG pain. In fact consult your
Doctor before and after removal of the right carb cause you will need
medicating as is with so many tasks in the confined spaces of the Dimona
engine bay :-)
Cheers.
Nige.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graeme Vertigan" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 4:54 PM
Subject: [DOG mailing list] Re: Dimona Fuel Hose Rreplacement
Hi Nigel,
I am presently replacing all the rubber fuel hoses on our Dimona, and
have to get to the copper- rubber connection on the firewall where the
copper hose comes up from the fuel tap. While I can see this joint I
can't get at it without removing the muffler. This is not easy, as the
header pipes come into the muffler at different angles, thus preventing
it from easily being removed. It seems that at least two header pipes
must be removed first or perhaps it may be better to remove the engine
entirely. Which do you suggest?
The fuel joint in question is very close to the RH rear engine pipe,
perhaps 1/2 and inch, which I feel is way too close. I suppose it would
be easy to relocate the copper pipe further to the centre of the aircraft
once access is gained. What do you think?
Kind Regards,
Graeme.
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