Don -
Neutralize right away. It will not change with time or tube "life".
Best is to neutralize on 20M first, then go to 10M and "touch it up". It's easy to go right past the correct setting on 10M, especially if you haven't done it before. The correct setting is a little "broader" on 20M. Once done on 20M, it should only take a degree or two of rotation on 10M.
Did you verify the plate meter accuracy at idle?
73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks to WB0IQK, K4OAH, W8UT, & WB8ZCC-all of you guys have been most helpful. The xmtr plate idling current now looks FB at 70 mH. I'm curious about a couple of more things. Should I give the replacement 6JB6As some "burn in" time before attempting neutralization? Also, is it better to neutralize at 10 meters as outlined in the xmtr manual, or at 20 meters initially, as I have seen suggested elsewhere on the web?
Again 73,
Don, W5EI
Troup, TX
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Submissions: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - subscribe drakelist in body Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ ----------------------------------------------------------------------

