"Greg" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Kavin, I'll cc this to the list aswell, if anyone else would be interested.
I left the original can in place to keep the looks, the new caps are much much smaller so they fit inside the bottom compartment where I used a kind of metal epoxy compound and stuck them to the inside of the chassis, I know this isn't the proper way but it was my first Drake - before I really got into restoring drakes. It was also a way to keep from drilling in the chassis and they are easily removable as the copper chassis is very smooth. I actually wrote down some of what I changed: (components are what I had home at the moment) C91 changed for 10µF 160V D4,D5,D6 changed to 1N4007's unidentified axial 1000µ 15v cap changed for 1000µ 35V C176 changed for 10µ 63v C190 changed for 220µ 40v RCA jacks replaced and ant-rca connector changed to UHF and coax changed for RG174. (R159 680ohm metalfilm with low inductance, low noise, high temp.stability) (C118 replaced, if I recall these two components are part of the RF input stage) C109 was parallell connected with another 220nF cap to make the 'Slow AGC' setting even slower response. R43 was replaced. C87 was replaced with a 220pF Mica. R154 was replaced. C90B, C90C, C90D , the large can-cap, was replaced with 3 x 100µ 250v caps that are way smaller so they fit inside the bottom compartment. Using like 150-220µ here could minimize hum (but wasn't necessary in my case), as they are filter caps after the rectifiers - adding some extra capacitance will flatten out the ripple. C172 I belive it is, was changed for a 22µ 250v cap. There are probably a few more components which I forgot about now... The new cables are for the new caps and because some other wires was melted. I used standard 0.28mm2 solid core cable for the rewiring (easier to form than multi-strand). The lamps I changed for blue and UV leds instead (maybe geeky but it looks nice :-) I polished the PTO screw and lubed it up with a sticky grease, replaced the steel balls in the bearing and added some grease to all moving parts. Cleaned all rotary switched with de-oxit and sprayed all potentiometers with contact cleaner. I added two 220v fans in series to make them silent yet effective, http://www.rfelektronik.se/temp/r4b_fan.jpg , it doesn't even show when I put the speaker next to the radio and it keeps the unit really cool instead of burning hot as it was prior the fan-mod. Internal pics , the top of the chassis is full of small spots that wont rub off , http://www.rfelektronik.se/temp/Dsc_2771.jpg http://www.rfelektronik.se/temp/Dsc_2781.jpg My Drake page won't perhaps win any awards, but it got some drake pics at least :) http://www.gravitywell.org/station/drake.htm The TR4 is in excellent condition after the restoration, http://www.gravitywell.org/station/drake/TR-4_1.jpg //Greg ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Submissions: [email protected] Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net ----------------------------------------------------------------------
