john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi Jim,

All sounds good! I always advise against cleaning screened dial glass (for the reasons you found out!!!), and I'd suggest "Satin Black" as a good match for the cabinet.

White rubbing compound or turtle wax does a nice job on hardware heads AND knobs / trim rings.... and the ivory dial background....and cabinets! Essential stuff. I've got some polish... "Finish re-nu" thats like a finer white compound in liquid suspension that I use on lots of things.... from auto parts store.

2B slide switches are perpetually bad...de-oxit from the back (at least they're easy to clean!)

They're great little radios!

John K5MO



At 10:04 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:

"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi John - K5MO,  and John, W1JA;


Nice to hear from you... Turned on Tubie (My name for
the 2B) and it worked fine tonight. Here at the
cottage, am surrounded by HV AC wiring which is
sometimes very noisy.  Wonder if the AC line is used
for other things besides power (BPL) ?

I am staying at a beach cottage and my fun project has
been the 2B and a TS-430S and I must say that the 2B
is a lot more fun to fix.

Don't know where to start...

Let everything dry well between stages (hair dryer OK)

For the the front panel, remove it, wash gently with
soap and water, rinse and dry.
sand rust carefully to get rid of loose rust.
Apply "Rust Converter" from Walmart.
Converts rust to a black, paintable, sandable primer.
Fill in the pits with Bondo Glazing Putty (Walmart)
and sand. Repeat till smooth.
Mask then spray with Krylon semi-flat #1613, and/or
apply with q-tip or toothpick.
(I used flat black and it is not a very perfect match)

*****IMPORTANT: Lettering on rear of glass faceplate
                is protected with clear spray that
                 will cloud up if you disturb it.
                 CLEAN CAREFULLY ! WARM WATER ONLY
                 AND DO NOT RUB. I found that out :-(

Front panel screws: Sand, pick out rust, and paint.
Punch holes in bottom
of yogurt cup and stick screws in to paint.  Glossy
black #1601 really looks good
on screws.

I had to sand and use concentrater on bottom front,
sides and back of chassis.
I then painted halfway up the rear of the chassis.
Looks kinda macho, and
better than rust. Replace all rusty screws and RF
connector with shiny ones.

Case..I had to straighten front edge with a big C
clamp.
      Will have to re-touch up case again with
semi-flat this time :-(
      Q-tips were used and If it comes out looking
worse than the panel,
      will repaint it.  It looks easy - no lettering
:-)

Knobs: Soak over night in Fantastic.
Scrape rust with a small screwdriver.
Apply Rust Converter with a toothpick.
Purch. chrome washers, metric size cost more but look
better.
(ACE Hardware around here, bring knob with you and
pick a good size)
Washers are twice the width of chrome ring but look
100% better than rust.
Super glue washers to knob.  Center carefully.

Red fingernail polish spruced up the little plastic
faceplate do-hicky.

Dial backround:  Walmart Krylon Satin Touch #3510
Ivory Satin.
Flip the dial pointer up and out of the way.
Wash, Lightly sand, wash again, mask carefully and
spray the visible section.
Looks spectacular and matches the meter almost
perfectly.

Lubricate moving parts with (expensive) Tri-Flow
teflon Superior Lubricant.
Liquid dries up leaving a teflon coating on bearings.

Buy replacement Capacitors from Unique Radio Parts,
LLC...Look it up on Google.
Save the old Capacitor can.  You might want to cut it
to replace caps on a
mint 2B.

I think that is it.

Let me know what you think.
Hard to make a silk purse from a sow's ear
but fun (and only about $90 worth of "stuff") to make
the 2B presentable
and worthy of a spot on your bench or in your mind.

I will be on the lookout to upgrade mine if a better
one magically appears.

72/73

Jim / W1FMR








--- john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
> john <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the
> drakelist gang
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
> One of my 2B's is also a real dog...rusty on the
> edges, chassis very
> pitted, chips off the front panel.
>
> Works flawlessly!
> :-)
>
> John K5MO
>
>
>
> At 05:03 PM 9/28/2007, Jim F. wrote:
>
> >"Jim F." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to
> the drakelist gang
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >Hi
> >I am new to the list and making a rusty 2B
> >presentable as my boatanchor receiver.
> >
> >The chrome rings on all knobs were really rusty.
> >Replaced the DC filter caps
> >Replaced 4 of the 6 paper capacitors
> >Repaired rust on the case and front panel
> >Chassis is almost entirely oxidized and pitted.
> >
> >Had the radio playing absolutely super last night
> but
> >this morning  heard a loud buzz (not exactly a
> hum).
> >Will see if works OK tonight.
> >
> >And someone must have banged the receiver down on
> the
> >main tuning knob which bent the tuning shaft a bit.
> >The dial cord slips in one spot as the knob is
> turned.
> >  Not serious but annoying.
> >
> >The set now looks OK and performs (at least it did
> >last
> >night :-) wonderful !
> >
> >If anyone is interested in a quick rusty ring knob
> >repair and what I used to lube the moving parts,
> >and how I repaired rust that formed from past 20
> >years in a damp basement, let me know and I
> >will post something.
> >
> >The radio does not look absolutely original,
> >but I really enjoy looking at it and listening
> >to it.
> >
> >If the chassis were not completely pitted I would
> >meticulously restore it. But it is a rescued radio,
> >  not restored 2B, but a "user" and a keeper.
> >
> >Never thought it would look as good as it does.
> >
> >72,
> >
> >jim / W1FMR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >to be replaced if anyone has any.
> >
> >
> >
>
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