Garey Barrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Wow! Talk about decisions..... :-)
Both of your receivers are VERY "late" in their respective groups. Your
R-4A is close enough to actually count the tubes. It "should" have 13
tubes, and therefore the tube type PD, but Drake wasn't always "perfect"
when it came to model changeovers. So I'd be very interested in how
many tubes are in your R-4A, just for refining my data.
There is an article on the WB4HFN site, but that was also from 40 year
old memory also. I "think" the Red crystals were positive TC, the Green
were near zero TC and the Blue were negative TC. The same color in R an
T is ideal, but if I have the colors right you have a positive and zero
combination with the R-4B. The R-4A could be better or worse, since all
Drake did was characterize their standard crystals in-house, and we have
no idea what group the R-4A crystal would have fallen into! :-) I
asked Bill Frost at Drake about this a few years ago, and he had even
forgotten that they "had" color coded crystals....
Best is to set them up, and try them for a while. Depending upon how
stable your shack temperature is, and how long you let them warm up
before use, etc., you might not have a significant problem. You could
try a "want" for someone with a mismatched pair to swap your G for an R
or your R for a G if you find it to be a problem. A hint..... You can
get an Xcelite 3324 screwdriver which is long enough to reach the C61
adjustment in the receiver without removing the cabinet top. If it's
not quite long enough, you can shave a bit off the blade end of the
handle. After you put it through the "proper" hole in the cabinet top,
slip a piece of aquarium airline tubing over the blade end and fit it to
the C61 adjuster. You can probably figure out why I did this 40 years
ago!! :-)
My choice, assuming the general condition of the two receivers is
similar, would be the R-4B. The "above the belt" lettering on the A is
difficult to see in normal lighting at best, the same for the slanted kC
dial, and the PTO in use light is handy. The cabinet paint on the B is
tougher also. Actually, if it was me, I'd keep them both, which is why
I have a couple dozen 4 Line boxes........ :-)
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B & C-Line Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Tom Bowman wrote:
Hi Garey,
Thanks very much for your complete answer. Here's what I found out:
First question is what is the serial number of your R-4A?
The R-4A serial number is 3956 with no letter behind it.
What is the letter at the end of the R-4B serial number?
The R-4B is 15359 with G behind the number.
What is the letter at the end of the T-4XB serial number?
The T-4XB is 10382 with R behind the number.
BTW, I want to transceive with this pair so the color code is
important. The R-4A has no color code on the crystals.
The R-4B has a red stripe on a crystal next to the crystal calibrator
under the chassis. None of the other crystals are color coded.
And the T-4XB has a red stripe on one of five crystals under the chassis.
The letters are a color code for the Carrier Oscillator and BFO
crystals
in the Tx and Rx. Ideally, the letters (and color stripes on the
crystals themselves, CHECK!) are the same in Tx and Rx.
My plan is to keep one of the receivers and sell the other. Will
either of these two receivers work on transceive without problems with
the T-4XB?
Thanks for taking the time to read and answer this.
Tom, WA3REY
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