Dale -
The B-Line dial is not particularly hard to replace. One REQUIREMENT is
a pair of snap-ring pliers. These come in a set from just about any
hardware or automotive shop, and are not real expensive. Essentially
plier handles with changeable tips, usually two or three different sizes
and both straight and offset varieties. The handles are also settable
to either "close" the pins or "open" the pins when the handles are
squeezed by moving a pivot pin. Once you have these, the job is simple.
First set the PTO dial to the low end of the band. Removing the PTO is
easy, just three wires and three nuts (6-32) on the spade bolts on the
bottom of the PTO. You may need to push the wiring harness around a
little to get to them, but not difficult. Digital photos are always a
good idea if available.
Sure a lot better than a "rough" sketch like we used to make. Once the
PTO is out, just remove the front snap-ring and then remove each of the
washers, spacers and friction disk on the front side of the dial disk.
Do NOT spread the snap-ring any more than necessary to allow it to slide
along the shaft. They WILL break if you get too enthusiastic with the
snap-ring pliers!! Lay them out on the bench in order so you get them
back correctly. I mark the shaft in front of the snap-ring with a
marker to get it back at the same spot. If it's too close to the PTO,
the main tuning knob skirt might hit the panel when you compress the
rubber "clutch" that allows you to hold the skirt while turning the knob
to adjust the 0.00 kHz mark on the skirt.
Replace the dial disk with the new one, and reassemble, making sure the
dial numerals are correct from the front! Don't worry about the actual
orientation of the dial disk as it is not difficult to adjust it when
the PTO is back in the radio.
If you have a counter you can set the PTO to 5.455 MHz (green wire out
of the PTO), this is 0.00 on the dial. If you don't have a counter,
just SPOT the transmitter or transceiver to get it on frequency. IF the
dial is then way off of 0.00, and you look down from the top of the PTO
you'll see that the left-most gear is drawn to the right by a coil
spring. The hole for this shaft in the front wall of the PTO gearbox is
oblong, and if you press the shaft to the left the gear will disengage
and the dial will spin freely, allowing you to set it to 0.00, or pretty
close. Once it's close, you can center the sliding fiducial on the
front panel to the center of the window, and then set the dial exactly
by holding the dial disk with one hand while turning the main tuning
knob with the other until the calibrate signal is zero-beat. This is
the reason for the friction disks / clutch.
I think that's all, although I don't have a real good record for
accuracy today! It's really easier done than said, especially once you
do it a time or three! :-)
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line & TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
[email protected] wrote:
I found a beautiful R4b ,bought the rig and found the dial is
cracked and some of the dial markings long gone. I have a NOS dial
that came with the radio. I have read everything I could fine ,mostly
on pto rebuilding where they covered removing the pto and thus the
dial also. I did this last year on a Kenwood 830,went pretty well. The
assembly dial and pto on the Drake looks 100% more complicated than
the 830. The pictures and the write ups I read ,shows me the writer
had a lot of experience and had done it lots of times.
I guess my question is this a job that is easier than it looks or
should be left to someone who does this all the time.I have no problem
trouble shooting or aligning the drakes but this looks to me like
trying to rebuild a automatic transmission, with pliers even if you a
good mechanic. Sure would like to hear from some of you that did the
dial replacement thing.
thanks for any guidance on this. I don't want to mess up a otherwise
fine rig.
thanks
dale wt4t
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