Ron -
The switches are / were silver plated. Partly because of a very
damaging article that is circulating, some attack these switches with
"silver cleaner", which, whether abrasive OR chemical work by removing
silver molecules.
I have seen several otherwise excellent receivers destroyed and scrapped
due to this procedure, either by the silver plating being removed or
just by having a fixed contact "sprung" by a Q-tip or other "tool" while
cleaning the "black" (silver sulfide, conductive) off of a perfectly
good switch. If you look carefully at the wiper of a good switch,
you'll see a bright line down the center where the fixed contact has
"wiped" through the soft black coating.
A drop of DeoxiT D100L is all you need.
/Rant off
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
<www.k4oah.com>
Ron wrote:
It has been a while since I had my TR3, but I was fairly sure that the band switches were
silver plated. The black "soot" is silver tarnish (still a great conductor).
I think the copper color would indicated you destroyed/removed the thin silver plating.
Is anyone on the list aware of the TR3 and know if it has silver plating or
just copper on the band switches?
73,
Ron WD8SBB
--- On Mon, 11/16/09, Brett Forehand<[email protected]> wrote:
From: Brett Forehand<[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Refurbishing a 'new to me' TR-3
To: [email protected]
Date: Monday, November 16, 2009, 4:06 PM
Hi
Bob! Saw your post here and thought I'd respond.
I've been working on a C line twins set for a bit.
I checked out your website... that's a cool idea
to do a step by step on the refurb. I would start by
getting some compressed air and blowing that dust out of
your house. Some sites actually DO recommend putting
your rig in the dishwasher. That kind of scares me,
but I've seen plenty of posts here that swear by it.
Simple Green (diluted) works great for me on cleaning
up the grime. I used DeOxit on the controls and
switches. Be especially careful of the wafers, I am
told they will swell with too much contact cleaner. I
used medical type cotton swabs and sprayed the DeOxit on
them, then cleaned the switches. You'll probably
notice a lot of black soot on them at first, and then they
will be a nice
shiny copper when done.
There are cap kits out there for your power
supply, as well as the rig itself. I recently
purchased a re-cap kit from hayseed hamfest.
Haven't gotten it installed yet,
though.
Great thing about this site is there is a LOT of
knowledge out there, and folks are quick to respond with
help.
Good luck with getting the old gal back on the
air!
73,Brett
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